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Millennium 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: Blake Cash on Jan 14, 2013

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Moving into the double knee bar rest that ends the...

Description 

Starts at the very back of the cave. Begins with long moves between positive albeit slopey holds and ok feet to the 4th bolt where you can cop a quick shake before wrestling through a watermelon-sized cobble (look for a knee bar here to make this a little easier). From here, the angle kicks back to horizontal and all underclings take you to a double knee bar rest. This has been said to be a 13b or so to the double knee bars.

From this rest, start out with juggy moves to another ok rest. From here the holds get small (for maple) and a lot of tension is needed to move left to the jug rail that is on la confianza. Sprint through this section and through the confianza crux to a final rest. From here take a hard left and do the text book jump finish to the anchor clipping jugs at mid-height in the cave.

Lots of trickery on this one. Look for some subtle knee scumming where the climbing seems to get the hardest...it'll help.

Location 

At the back of the cave.

Protection 

Bolts with fixed draws. 2 kneepads will definitely help.


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