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Millenium Falcon 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 14 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 2,536
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Belay in the "magic Tree" atop pitch 8

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

14 pitch route to the 1st (South) summit of the chief. A good mix of sport and trad climbing, with difficulties similar to those of the Grand Wall, except more 5.10+ climbing, tending towards the technical, with less strenuous laybacking. The shady nature of this route makes it a good hot-day choice.

P1) Follow dirty treed ramps up and right to move into a clean 5.8 chimney from it's bottom left side.

P2) Up thin left-facing corners and cracks, moving right to the belay. 5.10d

P3) Up the splitter crack (finger and ring locks) then left on delicate face holds, and into another thin crack which leads to a solitary bolt and a few hard face moves on the arete. 5.10d

P4) Sustained and technical arete climbing on all bolts. 5.11a

P5) Clean and fun chimney, with many opportunities for small gear. At ~5m up, step left out of the chimney and into a corner for a short stretch. 5.8

P6) Tricky moves around to the left quickly lead to a loose, blocky groove and easy climbing. 5.9

P7) Walk left on Trichome Ledge to the end, and begin with a technical crux sequence and mantle onto a horizontal footrail. Tiptoe across to the left, then follow great flakes and cracks up to belay. 5.10d

P8) Follow the steep corner crack to its end, at the trunk of the magical tree. From the tree, move up and then directly right to belay. This is a very good pitch, and likely the most strenuous of the route. It demands jamming in a variety of sizes. 5.10d

P9)From the right side of the belay ledge, follow the scenic arete for 30m, passing 3 bolts. Flakes and cracks are available for protection as well. 5.9

P10) Layback up the clean finger crack, then face climb to the base of the chimney. Getting in the chimney is not recommended. The moves between the two bolts can be protected with a blue alien out to the right side. The top of this pitch seemed hard for the grade. Ends at Bellygood Ledge (possible walkoff to the right). 5.10b

P11) Traverse left 30m from the last pitch, and find belay bolts near a fir tree. This pitch features 25m of high-quality face climbing on interesting holds. with only 4 bolts, it doesn't feel like a "sport pitch" but most difficult moves have bolts nearby. 5.10a

P12) Devious moves off the belay (I started way out right) lead up to several bolts and into a left-trending flake and crack system. Eventually step right around a small roof, and back left to the belay. 5.10c

P13) Follow the left of two bolted lines. Along a dike and past a small roof for 35m on all bolts. 5.11a

P14) Up left on easy dyke holds, and then back right again with increasing difficulty. Fully bolted. This is known as the "Gold Medal Ribbon". 5.11a/b

Note: An alternative P13 and P14 are just to the right. A bolted arching corner leading to a long rightward step-across. 5.10b - Move belay to far right edge of ledge - Up the long sustained finger crack. Somewhat licheny, but a very good pitch. 5.10c

From either ending, the walkoff trail is reached by heading up and left across a slab and into the woods.

Location 

This route is in the far left edge of the dihedrals, just right of Arrowroot and Rutabega. The backside trail can easily be descended in sandals, and can be reached by walking right at Bellygood ledge (P10) or up and left from the true top-out.

Protection 

Gear to 4" with doubles in small and medium cams. 12 runners or draws. All anchors are new and features rings and bolts.


Photos of Millenium Falcon Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 3
pitch 3
pitch 2
pitch 2
the chimney on pitch 5
the chimney on pitch 5
At the easy end of Bellygood ledge - near the top ...
At the easy end of Bellygood ledge - near the top ...

Comments on Millenium Falcon Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

We climbed the "lite" version... i.e. the 10p through Bellygood. 97 degree temps and full sun above dissuaded us from continuing.

A fun climb, but definitely not as classic as the Grand Wall in my opinion. The cruxes are short and the climbing mostly well protected. It seemed about as hard as the Grand Wall to me. It was definitely scruffy, but it just opened a few weeks ago so that might explain the dirt.

P1 - (5.8) No big deal. Dirt to a chimney. 40m
P2 - (10b/c) The only long pitch. 45-50m. I had a double set of TCUs and still ran out, though good nuts were still available. Fun climbing with occasional liebacky cruxes. Lots of crack switching keeps it entertaining. Great pitch.

The rest of the pitches are all 30-35m or less.

P3 - (10d) Best pitch on the climb IMO. A well protected finger crack leads to a bolt and tricky (and reachy) step left. You gain another crack which is tricky to protect. A #1 goes in a pocket/flair half way up. It is protectable, but you'll work for it (tricams might work great) Fortunately the climbing isn't too difficult. Another bolt and then some scrappy climbing to the belay.
P4 - (11a) Fully bolted, awkward climbing up low-angle twin aretes. Plenty of bolts keep it safe enough, but not particularly enjoyable to me. Sort of like a bad sport climbing pitch... but YMMV.
P5 - (5.8) Fun but dirty chimney. Step left to avoid the giant hanging chockstone/deathblock.
P6 - (5.9) One move wonder, and then up some dirt/ledges to the belay. I clipped the anchor and walked left to the anchor for the next pitch. It's exposed getting to the anchor, so you'll want to stay ropped up.
P7 - (5.10d) Crimpy bolted climbing off the belay to a precarious mantel and foot traverse left. A little spicy for the leader moving left. The follower can make most the hard moves and then unclip. Up the 5.9 crack (dirty topout) to the belay.
P8 - (5.10d) Burliest pitch of the route IMO. The crack demands jamming of all sizes, and although short is a steep mother effer. I placed everything from a 0.5 camalot to #4 camalot on this short pitch. Sloppy, sweaty jams (97 degree temps) increased the difficulty ;) The "magic tree" is totally sketchy. I accidentally stemmed off it a few times and it was CREEPY. After the crack ends expect some slightly scary root/tree pulling with some tree tieoffs until the final move right (one bolt) to the belay.
P9 - (5.9) Awkward face climbing with occasional gear and 3 bolts to the belay atop the arete
P10 - (5.10b) Surprisingly physical lieback crack to the finishing 2 bolt lieback to Bellygood.

BE CAREFUL TOPPING OUT!! Arrowroot and Rutabega are directly below and even a small rock could kill someone!!!!

Gear: One set of nuts, two sets of cams from small TCUs to #3 camalot. One #4 camalot (optional, I placed it on the magic tree pitch). The only gear hog pitch is p2, the rest of the pitches are short. I put alot of gear in the short P8-Magic Tree crack, but it was pretty hard for me in the heat.
By Monica Jones
From: CO
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Last four pitches are so awesome and not to be missed. I led the 10a and final "Gold Medal Ribbon pitch", which definitly felt like 11b to me. It was one of the coolest pitches I've ever done, anyone doing this route has got to finish it up!
By Eric Hirst
Aug 31, 2011

As Andy said, definitely be careful topping out from p10 onto Bellygood. Lots of loose gravel/rock perched there. Belaying from the bolts there (easy to miss) rather than from a tree may help.

I wasn't expecting much, but ended up loving this route. Great variety and surprise, fantastic position, and very little "throwaway" climbing.
By rickziegler
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Using a 70m rope, we linked P1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12 and pitch 13 with the 5.10 part of the crux pitch. Were able to get the crux pitch in the shade by linking these pitches.