Millenium Falcon 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Ed Esmond |
| Submitted By: | Jen Lloyd on Sep 5, 2007 |
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Adam starting the fun climbing in the corner.
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Description Every time I climb this route I am ecstatic to have discovered it again. It's so good you can't even remember how good it is until you're back on it. Start upward after a small tree stump left of the belay bolt to a good stance below a vertical section, the crux of the route. Here a good sequence goes a long way. Get a good rest (which involves using your head--physically) then move up toward a mantel on big holds. The mantel can be scary, but is safe. Get another good rest then pull over the lip for a fun, technical bit of climbing to the top.
Location Scramble up and left below Goldbug, then traverse left below Underdog and Peanut Man to gain a wider ledge. Millenium is at the far left side of this ledge w/ an eyebolt for the belayer. Don't climb straight up from the belay bolt (as I did on my first try on Millenium. This leads to Gunboat Diplomacy which is quite a bit harder and can ruin your day if you think you're signing up for a 10c), but traverse yet farther left across some mildly chossy rock hanging over a drop off to find the first true bolt of Millenium Falcon.
Protection 12 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
| Comments on Millenium Falcon |
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| Protection: Very frequently bolted, I skipped many of the bolts because I could reach the next one form the same stance. It would be awesome it you were looking to break into 5.10c.
11 bolts (some eyebolts, some normal hangers) 1 piton (in a terrible loose block, skip it if you feel comfy)
Quick Clips for anchors.
Careful pulling your rope, mine got twisted something fierce and I had to climb it again to get it unstuck (1st time for everything). |
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| My new favorite 5.10 at rumney.
Sorry Lonesome Dove |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 29, 2008
| Also, bring some extendable draws, they help with the rope drag...especially the first bolt. it might even be a good idea to clean the first bolt once you've clipped the second, and avoid the whole thing altogether.
but yeah...best 5.10 at rumney? definitely. |
By Joe Lee
From: tucson, az
Aug 1, 2010
| It's not a pretty looking route but the moves are fun and keep coming at you. You might want to practice a few hand jams before jumping on this thing. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 25, 2010
| Not sure why I waited so long to get on this... wow! Great climbing! |
By S. Neoh
Jun 16, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| Nice climb. I was surprised that I made a few hand jams on this route. The one I used for the middle crux was painful but solid.
We rapped off the low/start anchors at the end of the day. Be aware there are now (new) climbs below this set of anchors. I knocked some loose stuff off the short in-between section which is definitely still loose and dirty. You may want to double check for climbers below you before you drop rope and debris on top of them as you set up to rap. |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012
| I was told that a fun alternate way to access this climb is by going up the Maltese Falcon. Has anyone tried this? |
By S. Neoh
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| Matt, I cannot recommend it without reservations. See my post above. I rapped over Maltese and there was a good band of loose vegetated stuff between the top anchor of Maltese and the lower (rap) anchor of Millenium. I do not suppose this band has been scrubbed and cleaned up the past 3 months. |
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| I climbed it last weekend and thought it was mildly overrated. Sure it's a nice climb but IMO, is definitely not the best 5.10 in Rumney. |
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 18, 2013
| I had an awesome time on this the other day. I'd be hard pressed to think of a 5.10 that I have climbed that I have enjoyed more. Incredibly fun and varied climbing, it is much better when you are on it than it seems from the belay ledge. Unfortunately , I need to work on my crack skills before I can send this one. Hoping to knock this one out very soon.
To all the sport climbers like myself trying to get on all the 5.10s that you can, don't underestimate the need for crack skills on this one. It's just something you won't find much of outside the world of trad.
Climb this route! It's awesome! |
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