Millbrook is remote by Gunks' standards, but the "grueling" 40-minute hike rewards you with some of the best climbing the Gunks has to offer. Many consider it to be the Gunks' best cliff, but I think that depends on what you're looking for -- if it's fantastic views, no crowds, great climbing (although characteristically run out), a sense of commitment, and adventure in general, then you will not be disappointed. The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.
Getting to Millbrook is tricky. You can begin from the 30-minute parking area just below the Near Trapps and follow the Ridge Trail all the way to the top of the cliff. There are also some other approaches which are faster, but require crossing private property or confusing route finding. It is highly advisable to make your first trip to Millbrook with someone who knows the way -- and who can find the rappel stations at the top of the cliff -- they are not immediately obvious.
Browse More Classics in Millbrook
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Millbrook:
Westward Ha! 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
High Plains Drifter 5.10 R Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Time Being 5.11- X Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For Millbrook
No stars in the guidebooks? What an oversight... but perhaps understandable because of the first pitch. Begin at the right end of the section of wall that is home to Nectar Vector, Manifest Destiny, and New Frontier. A guide is essential for determining the location of the route, most easily identified by it's path through the roofs on the second pitch.P1: It's hard to describe exactly where this one starts, but it generally weaves up and right through lichenous rock to a cruxy white corner,...[more] Browse More Classics in NY