Mill Creek Crag  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  9,500' Page Views:  1,839. Good page?    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Harald Harb on Jun 20, 2011 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

BETA PHOTO: This is on the left side of the huge, road-facing ...

Description 

Drive up Mill Creek Rd, from Dumont. The National Forest boundary is well marked. Look for a big rock outcrop on your right high above the road. There are some trails that lead to the first wall, which is parallel with the road. All the way to the right side is a deep corner with two routes.

This is a secluded area with few climbers. I have put up four routes. There are chains at the top. They are trad routes, running from 5.7 to 10a. They are an easy 60m rope length.

There are 4 main routes from left to right, in order, Freeway, then by the dihedral, Honey Pot, Jug Haul, and Roof Rack. There is a bolt on "Jug Haul" to protect the first placement. If you miss the placement (flaired crack), it's a groundfall, so the clip is for safe keeping.

Getting There 

Drive west on I-70 to the Dumont exit (exit 235 off westbound I-70), about 2.5 miles. If you come from the west, you must use exit 234, Downieville. Take a right before the post office, Mill Creek Road. up about 2.5 miles. This has easy climbing for introducing new climbers to the sport. It is South-facing and warm on sunny days. Approach time to the base of the climbs is ~5 minutes and 10-15 minutes to the top for TRs.

L->R: 

A. Dihedral, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
B. Face (left of Freeway), 9, 1p, TR.
C. Bulge to Groove, 10, 1p, TR.
D. Freeway, 8-10, 1-2p, 30'-60'?, gear or TR.
E. Face, 7, 1p, gear.
F. Groper, 10, 1p, 70', TR.
G. Honey Pot, 9 or 10-, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
H. Chimney, 5, 1p, 70', TR.
I. Jug Haul, 10, 1p, 50', bolt & gear or TR.
J. Roof Rack, 9+, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
K. Sweet Petite, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

The Classics

Featured Route For Mill Creek Crag

Honey Pot 5.9  CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag

There are many options to make this climb from a 9 to a 10c depending on which variation you climb.Good cam placements are available, but be prepared for 9+ difficulty....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Mill Creek Crag Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Left side many climbing options, chain hangers, fo...	BETA PHOTO: Honey Pot 5.9 left, Jug Haul 5.10 on the right.	BETA PHOTO: Two great routes on this right side of the crag. I...

Comments on Mill Creek Crag

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By Harald Harb From: Dumont Aug 26, 2011

This is good rock, fairly clean as well. I think Diana and I are the only ones climbing here. If more people climb it, the routes will get really nice and clean. There is some lichen in places, but no real rock falling off or that drops when you climb. I didn't bolt the routes, because I like to have a real trad area around here that is moderate. If you want total peace of mind, top rope the routes. These are red point ratings, so if you are not a regular 5.10 trad leader, be prepared for some spice, especially on the Jug Wall.

By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Oct 4, 2011

This crag is easier to spot going downhill than going uphill for a first timer. It is not this crag at the top of the ridge: Another crag, Mill Creek Dome, above and accessed from downhill of Mill Creek Crag. Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 4, 2011 Mill Creek Crag is close enough you could hit it throwing a rock. The creek is nice for a cool down/rinse off after climbing.

By Harald Harb From: Dumont Jun 26, 2012

Diana and I found the industrious Richard Wright checking out a new route he put up going about 5.12 on Mill Creek Dome. Richard has been very busy, new routes everywhere up on the Dome. Submitted By: Harald Harb on Jun 26, 2012

By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Oct 15, 2012

I had the opportunity to check out most of MCC routes this last weekend. While I recognize Harald's request for a bolt free area, I ran a TR through the overhanging crack and corner system 20 ft right of the Freeway route, the main dihedral on the West-facing wall. This would make fine, difficult route (5.11+ give or take a bit), but it would require at least partial bolt protection. I won't put it in with bolts if that is the consensus; however, it could be a really good addition.