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Milky Way Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Gravity S 
Close Encounters S 
Dark Matter S 
Deep Impact S 
E.V.A. S 
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 
Gemini S 
Houston, We Have a Problem S 
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 
Milky Way S 
Right Stuff Variation, The S 
Right Stuff, The S 
Rocket Boys S 
Space Invaders S 
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 
Wormhole S 

Milky Way Wall  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: 1)The Right Stuff 5.10a 2)The Right Stuff Variatio...


One of the main walls at the Galaxy area, and the first big one you reach. This is where the first routes went up and holds some of the best rock.
The wall faces mostly West and gets lots of afternoon sun. During the Summer, the morning is perfect at this wall. The left most route goes into the sun at about 11:30 and if you work your way right along the wall you can stay in the shade until almost 3pm.
The wall on the left side has some terrific rock and classic routes (belay on the big landing below an easy slab). The tall section in the middle has some long lines and a second pitch or two (still being completed). The right side (the first you encounter on you right) has some short good lines and one long one.

Getting There 

Past Mission Control. The first obvious big wall you reach. Has several "areas" but every section has its own good landings. (please help keep these landing and trails solid. If they need fixing, help out.)

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Milky Way Wall:
Gemini   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Milky Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Anti-Gravity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
Close Encounters   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
The Right Stuff   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
Look Ma...No Heatshield!   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Space Invaders   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   
Dark Matter   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Milky Way Wall

Featured Route For Milky Way Wall
The sun in the eyes makes the crimps hard to see.

Dark Matter 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Milky Way Wall
Another fantastic line!Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up towards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps. The last real challenge (and probably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! When you hit this move you can't help but feel pretty darn good about yourself. The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry a...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Milky Way Wall Slideshow Add Photo
1)Deep Impact 5.9 2)Gemini 5.8 3)Close Encounters ...
BETA PHOTO: 1)Deep Impact 5.9 2)Gemini 5.8 3)Close Encounters ...
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The routes on the main (left) portion of the Milky...
BETA PHOTO: The routes on the main (left) portion of the Milky...
A different view of Apollo and Milky Way.
A different view of Apollo and Milky Way.

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