Milktoast 5.10d
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The route.
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Description A fun climb. The bottom half is fairly technical with broad holds which lead up to a small roof. Above the roof there is s striaght up fun crimp fest (.11a) or some friendlier (but not much) holds to the left.
Location basically up the arete between "5.8 Crack by the road" and Romancing the stone.
Protection 6 bolts to lower offs
Bruce on the interesting opening moves.
| Bruce approaching the roof.
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By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jan 16, 2008
| I used to not like this climb till i found the holds out left after the roof... now its more fun but there are so many better routes at the grade close by i dont tend to choose this one often... the bottom section ive always thought felt insecure so be careful clipping those bolts lower down... |
By twellman Jul 16, 2009
| About halfway up, you can find perhaps the best undercling I've ever laid my hands on, and get quite a good rest before attacking the few bouldery moves to conquer the bulge. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Oct 8, 2012
| So... I just got the Mountain Project app for my new android phone... turns out I need some practice using it. I got on this thinking it was Asbury Park (5.7). Imagine my surprise halfway up when someone told me it was 5.10d.... anyways, I managed to get up, despite quite a few rests. Good knee bar rest in the middle though. |
By S. Neoh Oct 8, 2012 rating: 5.10d
| Not a fave of mine but I do remember working pretty darn hard to get a flash of this route the year it was put up. Sharp and painful climb then. We did not know, to be at grade, one ought to pass the roof on the left. I think I attacked it straight on or even a little to the right of the bolt just above the roof. Never again I told myself after the flash. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Oct 9, 2012
| Being tall (~6 feet), I found going straight up over the roof to be doable, as I was just barely tall enough to reach the decent hold while doing the knee bar under the roof. |
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