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Left of Noises in the Night you will find a low angle slab leading to a chossy looking short overhang with a bolt in it. This is the start of Milk Train. Climb 3 bolts past a few interesting slab moves and onto easier terrain with some gear placements in a shallow right facing corner. Bear right to a bolt as things steepen (going straight up out of the corner will put you on "Doucet Direct" variation - 5.9R). Continue slightly right up a steep headwall on bolts to face climbing with thin gear placements here and there. Find a two bolt belay on a blueberry ledge at 140'. P2. Make 5.5 moves off the belay to sporadic gear placements and more 5.5 climbing to the top of the cliff and a tree to rap off.
Left side of the wild west wall just before a dirty, vegetated right facing corner.
Gear to hand sized and draws for bolts.
|By Derek Doucet|
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
One of my finer route finding moments. Still not sure how I managed to get lost on a 140' face pitch...
The climbing straight up is actually really nice. It just needs another bolt or two to keep one from bouncing off the slab below.