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 ADVANCED
Wild West Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Master-Debater, The T 
Milk Train T 
Noises in the Night S 
Old School T 

Milk Train 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: S. Maciejowski, K. Karn Fall 2010
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012

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Description 

Left of Noises in the Night you will find a low angle slab leading to a chossy looking short overhang with a bolt in it. This is the start of Milk Train. Climb 3 bolts past a few interesting slab moves and onto easier terrain with some gear placements in a shallow right facing corner. Bear right to a bolt as things steepen (going straight up out of the corner will put you on "Doucet Direct" variation - 5.9R). Continue slightly right up a steep headwall on bolts to face climbing with thin gear placements here and there. Find a two bolt belay on a blueberry ledge at 140'. P2. Make 5.5 moves off the belay to sporadic gear placements and more 5.5 climbing to the top of the cliff and a tree to rap off.


Location 

Left side of the wild west wall just before a dirty, vegetated right facing corner.


Protection 

Gear to hand sized and draws for bolts.



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By Derek Doucet
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of my finer route finding moments. Still not sure how I managed to get lost on a 140' face pitch...

The climbing straight up is actually really nice. It just needs another bolt or two to keep one from bouncing off the slab below.