After a new first pitch, the route follows the best three pitches of Milk Run before following cracks above and a final dyke finish. The best pitches are the 10b and 10d fingery corners (3 and 4) of Milk Run, with the second one being the crux. The climbing on the crux pitch is exceptionally sustained on excellent finger locks and as much gear as one wants to place. The final real pitch (8) is a memorable walk sideways along a featured dyke.
Tantalus Wall. From the base of the wall, walk right, uphill, for 50m to a wooded platform. A V-crack marks the start.
Descent: walk off via the Bellygood Ledge trail.
rack fingers to #4 with triples or quadruples in the finger sizes for the blockbuster corner pitch. All but the corner pitches have at least one bolt. All anchors are bolted for rappel.
BETA PHOTO: Milk Road topo
classic 10b finger locking on pitch 3.
pitch 5, Changing Corners, 10b. Steep up a left-fa...
crux pitch (10d). Pretty much every move feels 10b...
Pitch 1 (5.9 C0 or 5.11b) from the base of the cli...
pitch 8 (10c). Wild foot traverse
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Weed
Feb 9, 2011
The first four pitches are rad, the rest, meh. The dirt ramp pitch is ugly and lame. The dike is good fun
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 30, 2012
I thought that the route was fantastic. The ramp is lame, but the other new pitches are a lot of fun. 4 stars IMO.