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Dinosaur Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bob Cranks S,TR 
Dinosaur Tracks T 
East Bone T 
East Face Right/Dinosaur Rock T 
East Face/Dinosaur Rock T 
Jurassic Park S 
Milk Bone S 
Patience Face S,TR 
Pink Man's Burden S 
Pretty in Pinkler S,TR 
Rug Munchers T 
Shaft, The S,TR 
South Ramps T 
Tracks are for Kids S,TR 
Triceratops Tracks S,TR 
Ultrasaurus (aka Uber-Pwnage) S 
West Bone T 
West Face [Dinosaur Rock] T 
Unsorted Routes:

Milk Bone 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: TR: Chris Weidner, Matt Samet | Lead: vice versa
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 10,122
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Jimmy trying hard in the first crux, 6/12/14.

Cli...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs the pronounced, limestone-like tufa (the "Bone") in the middle of the north face of Dinosaur Rock. It's 30 meters long, and sustained as all hell once you step off the ledge below the Bone. The water action down the wall sculpted all the best holds right on the Bone itself - the scoops out left and right are blank, forcing Euro-style movement on this extruded feature.

The climb follows 11 half-inch bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall, out of the way of the East Face slab routes. We unclipped the first bolt after clipping the second, for rope drag, and used a long sling or two in places higher on the route, though they aren't totally mandatory. There is a sort of wedged block near the second bolt that we didn't use on the traverse - heads up with it. There's also a hollow toaster-sized flake near the jugs down and right of the last bolt - don't use that either (X on it). You don't need to use either of these holds.

To begin, scramble up the ramps, and then move right to left across the lower ledges. Once below the roof, start tugging and don't let go till the chains. For what it's worth, I think this is one of the best pitches in the Flatirons.

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, Boulder OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to establish new routes in the Flatirons.


Location 

This is in the center of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.


Protection 

11 bolts to a double-bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 40 feet up but is reached via easy fifth class. If you get gripped on the dirty ramp, there's probably a little gear.

60-meter rope - and tie a knot in the end.



Photos of Milk Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Matt McKee gettin' after it now that he has his draws back.
Matt McKee gettin' after it now that he has his dr...
Joe Kinder rides the bone.  Photo: Andy Mann.
Joe Kinder rides the bone. Photo: Andy Mann.
Jimmy pulling onto the bone, 6/12/14. <br /> <br />Climbing photography by: <br />vandiverphoto@gmail.com.
Jimmy pulling onto the bone, 6/12/14.

Climbing ph...
Square Rock, Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain.
Square Rock, Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain.
Myself nearing the top of the bone, 6/12/14. <br /> <br />Climbing photography by: <br />vandiverphoto@gmail.com.
Myself nearing the top of the bone, 6/12/14.

Clim...
Kurt Ross catching air on Milk Bone.
Kurt Ross catching air on Milk Bone.
Comments on Milk Bone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 7, 2009

This route is awesome.
Killer sustained climbing out a long proud wall.
Unusual movement, good rock, nice approach.
If you like 13a climbing, don't miss this one.

Thanks, Matt!

By Madaleine
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 17, 2009

Yes, thank you for this route!

So a week after Glover's post on Sept. 7th, I pulled the fixed draws off Milk Bone. Please contact me so I can get the draws back to you.

Historically speaking, it was public annoyance over the route--Superfresh-- on a major hiking trail, with its tick marks and fixed draws, that was the final straw to close the Flatirons to route development 13 yrs ago. I really want to be able to continue climbing the Flatirons and see new good lines developed. This is happening through pilot areas and trail work and a working relationship with OSMP, etc....

Excuse me for pulling the draws and please don't fix on this major trail in the future.

Sept. 7th Post:
Someone recently ticked the hell out of Milk Bone. Giant, foot long ticks clearly visible from the trail. Overticking is super lame to begin with and draws attention to the crag and our scene which we need to keep super low key so we can keep this new-routing thing going. Someone has had their draws on this route for over a month now. Whoever it is please remove your draws so we don't attract negative flack from hikers or rangers. If you need to hang the draws, it is easy to 4th class to the summit of Dino from the west and do a short rap off a giant flake to the anchors. And be cool to hikers no matter what retarded yum-yums they are.

By Joe Collins
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thanks for taking those draws down. This is an extrememly popular area for hikers and Milk Bone is clearly visible right above the trail.

I'm really thankful for all the new routes that Matt, Chris, and Ted have had a hand in up there. Leaving draws hanging in a location as public as this could get the crag closed and possibly threaten the future opening of more coveted crags in the Flatirons.

By Tank Evans
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I pulled the fixed draws off Milkbone today. I am really sorry if you hiked all the way up there and were not able to climb. However, please see previous posts for this route and Ultrasaurus and do not leave draws on these routes.

Please contact me, so that I can get them back to you. Again I apologize if this hoses a day of climbing for you, but we really need to tread lightly so that more awesome routes like these can be put up.

Thanks

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 5, 2011

Awesome route with a cool crux and very intricate body movement/positioning above. Yes, the business is only about 3-4 bolts long, but it really packs a punch. I thought it's slightly harder and better than the neighboring Ultrasaurus (thought the 2 have very different style).

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2011

I left my draws up on this route and The Shaft today after getting stormed out. The conditions after it rained made it impossible for me to get to the top of The Bone, so I just left the draws up on this and The Shaft which was my warmup. I know that leaving draws on these particular routes is taboo, but PLEASE do not remove them. I did not leave them for the purposes of working the route, simply horrible conditions, so please leave them up. I will be up to get them by the end of the week. If someone does feel the need to remove them, you can drop them off at the Boulder Rock Club front desk and just tell them they are for Curt. Thanks

By dyager
From: Fort Collins
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Fantastic route! and my first .13!! Thanks, Matt, for this gem! Happy send-tember, all.

By Mike to the B
Jun 13, 2014

Fellow Milkboners-

Removed a set of draws hanging on Milkbone on Thursday, June 13. Placed them behind the huge jug at the top of the slab (before the first bolt). Sorry for any inconvenience, but want to make sure to preserve access and the ability to bolt great lines like this in the future. Historical note: draws hanging on a route in the Flatirons visible from the trail is the reason for the current bolting moratorium.

Happy boning.