Left of Milk Dreams, there is a left-facing corner 30 feet off the ground. Just left of this is a seam which becomes a double seam through a small overhang, this is the route. About 25 feet of poorly protected but easy scrambling/climbing leads to the base of the corner and seam. Climb the seam and face holds around it (throwing a foot in the corner as needed) to just above the overhang. Gear placements and face holds just keep appearing, have faith. Step right here into a wide hands crack, then straight up to join the final thin hands corner of Milk Dreams. Double rope rappel gets you down. Or do another short pitch, Cookies. From the ground, the route looks hard, unprotected and dirty/no fun. It is none of the above, and is actually quite good.
A set of nuts, a set of TCUs, a set of cams to #3.5 Friend (that's a #3 Camalot).
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 27, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
The rock in the corner left of Milk Dreams is not very good. For my own part, I didn't like it very much. I spent more time assessing if or not I was going to drop rocks on my belayer than thinking about the moves.
Tony, I agree about the rock in that corner. The route climbs the seam/double seam to the left. Sorry if the above description didn't make that clear.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 19, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
No problem, Mark, actually it was fairly clear. I was referring to the corner and the rock next to it.... I pulled a few things loose from that seam, too. I probably got sucked into the corner too much and doing the route with the fewest possible stems into the corner is probably the right thing to do, but then it feels like and 'eliminate' type of route (i.e. the route PsychGillLogical) and doesn't feel like it flows well. But I've certainly climbed worse routes! It also may improve with cleaning.