Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Mark Hammond and Chad Koorndyk
Page Views: 834 total · 3/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on May 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Left of Milk Dreams, there is a left-facing corner 30 feet off the ground. Just left of this is a seam which becomes a double seam through a small overhang, this is the route. About 25 feet of poorly protected but easy scrambling/climbing leads to the base of the corner and seam. Climb the seam and face holds around it (throwing a foot in the corner as needed) to just above the overhang. Gear placements and face holds just keep appearing, have faith. Step right here into a wide hands crack, then straight up to join the final thin hands corner of Milk Dreams. Double rope rappel gets you down. Or do another short pitch, Cookies. From the ground, the route looks hard, unprotected and dirty/no fun. It is none of the above, and is actually quite good.

Protection Suggest change

A set of nuts, a set of TCUs, a set of cams to #3.5 Friend (that's a #3 Camalot).

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