A problem with everything from tension slopey trav...
Description
This has really good if somewhat spread out bouldering. This is town property/forest and can be frequented by biker and hikers, too. There are about 15 boulders and 75? problems, V0-V10.
Getting There
Exit Route 495 at Route 85 south in Milford/Hopkinton (~45' west of Boston). On your right is a gas station and Wendy's. Park BEHIND these at a closed road. Walk up the closed road and left through an overgrown area (still an ok trail) for about 10 minutes. The first boulder is on your right. Keep going another 5 minutes and more boulders appear on both sides. More to come.
Per Jcomeau: Update on directions: Park behind Wendy's at the closed road and walk down the closed road. Take the first left to cut over to the new bike path. The first road on your right takes you down to the Atomic area. Pass that boulder and on the hillside are more boulders. If you pass the Atomic pullout, the next trail on your right brings you out into the Shadow Brook Quarry area. This is where Full Metal Jacket, Little Devil, The Roofs, etc are.
Per Coz Teplitz: For a 1st timer, once you turn left onto the new bike path, the first trail on the right does lead to Atomic. The other trail mentioned (the "main road" listed in some problem descriptions) is not the next trail on the right, but is the big dirt road with the metal gate across it. There are other, smaller trails between the two that will get you turned around.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Milford Bouldering:
Stand start on two edges, go straight up to hard reach for the top. Mike Galoob added a hard sit start V9. And a traverse is possible to come in from the left but wants to top out earlier than the actual start. ...[more]Browse More Classics in MA
Another close by area that has some potential is Peppercorn Hill in Upton. Ive found a few things there, one of which has a hige line up a big overhang....
If you find Lil' Devil, behind you near a small quarry has some cool steep stuff (6-8) problems. Behind that are 2 egg shaped boulders with V1-V8 on them, nice.
John... on the hill next to the power lines? And I think I found the smaller boulders.... I wish you had a copy of that map I keep hearing about. I'll have to look around that area some more.
Jennifer is hanging out with me! If you take a right at Wendy's (I forget the road name) and go down the street a mile ? to a street on the right, there is a WAY big boulder right in the cul-de-sac. It may be private now, I don't know. Some really cool lines though.
Update on directions: Park behind Wendy's at the closed road and walk down the closed road. Take the first left to cut over to the new bike path. The first road on your right takes you down to the Atomic area. Pass that boulder and on the hillside are more boulders. If you pass the Atomic pullout, the next trail on your right brings you out into the Shadow Brook Quarry area. This is where Full Metal Jacket, Little Devil, The Roofs, etc are.
Unfortunately more graffiti is showing up on some of the boulders here as well as College Rock. I would like to order some Taginator and clean these boulders. I could use some help.
Note on the approach: I stumbled around for about an hour yesterday before I figured out Jcomeau's directions. For other folks headed out for the first time: Once you turn left onto the new bike path, the first trail on the right does lead to Atomic. The other trail mentioned (the "main road" listed in some problem descriptions) is not the next trail on the right, but is the big dirt road with the metal gate across it. There are other, smaller trails between the two that will get you turned around.
I eventually found The Roofs, thought it was cool, and intend to go back as soon as the weather permits. Good quality rock.
I've been exploring and putting up some stuff in the Vietnam area in Milford lately. I've done a lot of mtn biking up there but just recently started looking for climbs. Anyone know how much of Vietnam has been explored for climbing?