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Tony leads the first pitch in less than perfect co...
Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.
1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.
2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.
3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!
4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.
Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.
Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.
Nuts are fine - cams if you must.
Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.
P2, just before the leg-jam chimney. (c) Scott Nom...
Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...
|Comments on Milestone Direct
|By Rob Lilley|
From: Manchester, UK
Apr 30, 2012
In places the rock is so polished you can almost see your face in it, however the holds are positive and there are some great moves for the grade.