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Milestone Buttress
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Milestone Direct T 

Milestone Direct 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: G. Barlow, H. Priestly-Smith 1910
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007

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P2, just before the leg-jam chimney. (c) Scott Nom...

Description 

Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.

1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.

2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.

3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!

4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.

Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.

Location 

Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.

Protection 

Nuts are fine - cams if you must.


Photos of Milestone Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Tony leads the first pitch in less than perfect co...
Tony leads the first pitch in less than perfect co...
Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.
Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.
Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...
Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...

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By Rob Lilley
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

In places the rock is so polished you can almost see your face in it, however the holds are positive and there are some great moves for the grade.