Milestone Direct  5.4

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  G. Barlow, H. Priestly-Smith 1910 Submitted By:  Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tony leads the first pitch in less than perfect co...

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Description 

Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.

1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.

2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.

3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!

4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.

Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.

Location 

Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.

Protection 

Nuts are fine - cams if you must.

Photos of Milestone Direct Slideshow

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Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.	P2, just before the leg-jam chimney. (c) Scott Nom...	Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...