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Milestone Buttress
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Milestone Direct T 

Milestone Direct 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: G. Barlow, H. Priestly-Smith 1910
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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P2, just before the leg-jam chimney. (c) Scott Nom...


Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.

1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.

2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.

3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!

4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.

Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.


Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.


Nuts are fine - cams if you must.

Photos of Milestone Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony leads the first pitch in less than perfect co...
Tony leads the first pitch in less than perfect co...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.
Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...
Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...

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By Rob Lilley
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

In places the rock is so polished you can almost see your face in it, however the holds are positive and there are some great moves for the grade.

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