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Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.
1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.
2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.
3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!
4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.
Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.
Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.
Nuts are fine - cams if you must.
Chris Owen follows P1 (c) Scott Nomi.
P2, just before the leg-jam chimney. (c) Scott Nom...
Tony rounding The Bivalve after finishing the hand...
|Comments on Milestone Direct
|By Rob Lilley|
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
In places the rock is so polished you can almost see your face in it, however the holds are positive and there are some great moves for the grade.