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Mike's Short Route 
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Mike's Short Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ben Rosenberg and Mike Bannister
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: ben rosenberg on Apr 4, 2006
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Getting into the crux.

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  • Description 

    Climb up the slab to the obvious left-facing dihedral. A wide crack splits the feature; climb this to the top.


    Location 

    This is the offwidth left of the route Full Throttle. Walk off to descend.


    Protection 

    I got a couple of bad stoppers. Future parties should be able to protect with their biggest cams and/or Big Bros.



    Comments on Mike's Short Route Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 6, 2006
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

    This felt harder than 5.9, but only for 2 meters. Then again, we did it in sub-freezing temperatures at sunrise. I suspect it might be easier for smaller people, and Mike is a Hobbit, so I can see where he is coming from....
    Climb the easy slab with a hand crack in the corner, put in overhead gear (larger) then pull into a lieback and some grunting for a body length. A #5 Camalot is at the knees for a crux exit, but there is some suspect rock around, so be attentive to place it carefully. I think this would be a very hard and potentially dangerous for a 5.9 leader.
    To belay, walk back 5m from the top and sling a few big rocks.
    If only the climb were taller than 25', it would get more stars and respect.

    Post script edit:
    Mike has admitted that the assigned grade was a sandbag and was assigned because this is the 'traditional offwidth sandbag grade.'