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Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Equipped by Josh Smith, FA Lee Brinckerhoff
Page Views: 2,376
Submitted By: LeeAB on Dec 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Nat hits the small left crimp near the end of the ...

Description 

Hardish start to a great rest followed by a long difficult boulder problem up the arete. Strangely left leg intensive.

Thuggish climbing out the low roof to a great rest at the break. Pull out the bulge above with big moves on pretty good holds to a clip. Slap up the arete above on some really fun holds skipping a clip on the way to an edge on the arete. Make the clip and bust the last couple of hard moves up and left to a juggy horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top of the route.

This route can also be climbed on THIN holds to the left of the bolt line at the cost of a bit more skin.

Location 

Just to the right of Godzilla Meets Bambi, the second route from the left on the main section of cliff.

Protection 

11 bolts to a chain anchor with fixed biners.


Photos of Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) Slideshow Add Photo
Ed starting the route - "Mike Wazowski" ...
Ed starting the route - "Mike Wazowski" ...
Cleaning Mike Wazowski after the send, in nearly d...
Cleaning Mike Wazowski after the send, in nearly d...
Starting the crux boulder problem on the 1st try &...
Starting the crux boulder problem on the 1st try &...
After the crux.  Photo via iphone ha ha.
After the crux. Photo via iphone ha ha.
Ed Strang going for the SEND!-Upper East Fork- &qu...
Ed Strang going for the SEND!-Upper East Fork- &qu...

Comments on Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 3, 2010

I know that this route was being worked by both Peter Gram and Heath (from somewhere back east, NC?) as well as myself. So I'm unsure of who the FFA is on it, but Josh Smith bolted it and deserves credit for putting up a great line.
By Josh Smith
Dec 12, 2010

Nice job, Lee!
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 13, 2010

Thanks guys.
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts.
By Heath Bailey
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Doneski. Second ascent went on Mother's Day (unless there was another before).

Fun & flowing 5.12 b/c moves in the low roof lead to a great rest at the ledge. A v8ish compression crux low on the arete takes you to the v6/7 redpoint crux after a clip, and then scramble for the anchors = 5.13c. A proper mix of power and technique will see you through these hard moves.

Props to Josh Smith for the vision, Lee AB for the FA back in the winter, and to all the mothers out there!

Squeezing and slapping the arete makes for just a great route. The face variation on or left of the bolt line looks plausible and painful for the uber-crimper!
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 10, 2011

Nice work Heath,
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 25, 2014
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

With a kneebar pad I was able to dumb down the first crux and make the move to the first right hand pocket much easier. Low end 13c? This time of year the upper crux gets sun until after 5:00.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 15, 2015

By JWatt
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Nice work man! And an interesting sequence. Little gutted those hangers are gone now though.. those were nice :)
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