Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) 5.13+
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13+ [details] |
| FA: | Equipped by Josh Smith, FA Lee Brinckerhoff |
| Submitted By: | LeeAB on Dec 3, 2010 |
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After the crux. Photo via iphone ha ha.
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Description Hardish start to a great rest followed by a long difficult boulder problem up the arete. Strangely left leg intensive.
Thuggish climbing out the low roof to a great rest at the break. Pull out the bulge above with big moves on pretty good holds to a clip. Slap up the arete above on some really fun holds skipping a clip on the way to an edge on the arete. Make the clip and bust the last couple of hard moves up and left to a juggy horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top of the route.
This route can also be climbed on THIN holds to the left of the bolt line at the cost of a bit more skin.
Location Just to the right of Godzilla Meets Bambi, the second route from the left on the main section of cliff.
Protection 11 bolts to a chain anchor with fixed biners.
Ed starting the route -
"Mike Waxowsk" (5.13+)
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Ed Strang going for the
SEND!-Upper East Fork-
"Mi...
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Starting the crux boulder problem on the 1st try
"...
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| Comments on Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) |
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By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 7, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | On 6/5/2013, the 5th(?) bolt which is at the start of the crux section had the nut pull off!! The bolt stud appears OK but if you're working this route ( I know some ABQ guys have been up there recently) then you'll need to bring a new nut and a wrench (old nut lost). The hanger is with one of the "fixed" draws on the 2nd bolt. Maybe try to scrape a flatter seat for the hanger if you fix it. Good Luck. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 3, 2010
| I know that this route was being worked by both Peter Gram and Heath (from somewhere back east, NC?) as well as myself. So I'm unsure of who the FFA is on it, but Josh Smith bolted it and deserves credit for putting up a great line. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 13, 2010
| Thanks guys.
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts. |
By Heath Bailey
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.13c
| Doneski. Second ascent went on Mother's Day (unless there was another before).
Fun & flowing 5.12 b/c moves in the low roof lead to a great rest at the ledge. A v8ish compression crux low on the arete takes you to the v6/7 redpoint crux after a clip, and then scramble for the anchors = 5.13c. A proper mix of power and technique will see you through these hard moves.
Props to Josh Smith for the vision, Lee AB for the FA back in the winter, and to all the mothers out there!
Squeezing and slapping the arete makes for just a great route. The face variation on or left of the bolt line looks plausible and painful for the uber-crimper! |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 10, 2011
| Nice work Heath,
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest. |
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