Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.)
|Type: ||Sport, 80'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]|
|FA: ||Equipped by Josh Smith, FA Lee Brinckerhoff|
|Page Views: ||1,595|
|Submitted By: ||LeeAB on Dec 3, 2010|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Ed starting the route -
"Mike Waxowsk" (5.13+)
Hardish start to a great rest followed by a long difficult boulder problem up the arete. Strangely left leg intensive.
Thuggish climbing out the low roof to a great rest at the break. Pull out the bulge above with big moves on pretty good holds to a clip. Slap up the arete above on some really fun holds skipping a clip on the way to an edge on the arete. Make the clip and bust the last couple of hard moves up and left to a juggy horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top of the route.
This route can also be climbed on THIN holds to the left of the bolt line at the cost of a bit more skin.
Just to the right of Godzilla Meets Bambi, the second route from the left on the main section of cliff.
11 bolts to a chain anchor with fixed biners.
|Photos of Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) Slideshow
After the crux. Photo via iphone ha ha.
Ed Strang going for the
SEND!-Upper East Fork-
Starting the crux boulder problem on the 1st try
|Comments on Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.)
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 3, 2010
I know that this route was being worked by both Peter Gram and Heath (from somewhere back east, NC?) as well as myself. So I'm unsure of who the FFA is on it, but Josh Smith bolted it and deserves credit for putting up a great line.
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 13, 2010
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts.
|By Heath Bailey|
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a
Doneski. Second ascent went on Mother's Day (unless there was another before).
Fun & flowing 5.12 b/c moves in the low roof lead to a great rest at the ledge. A v8ish compression crux low on the arete takes you to the v6/7 redpoint crux after a clip, and then scramble for the anchors = 5.13c. A proper mix of power and technique will see you through these hard moves.
Props to Josh Smith for the vision, Lee AB for the FA back in the winter, and to all the mothers out there!
Squeezing and slapping the arete makes for just a great route. The face variation on or left of the bolt line looks plausible and painful for the uber-crimper!
From: ABQ, NM
May 10, 2011
Nice work Heath,
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest.