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Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?Brian Teale and Dan Morrison,~1974? ?Larry C. Schubarth & Gregg Stevens, 1977?
Page Views: 2,319
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Great climb!

Description 

To find this route, hike up to the hollow flake route on arch rock. From here, look right approximately 40 feet to the large chimney/corner formed by an enormous flake leaning against the wall. This is captain fist.

Either slab or use a slab/chimney combination to pull up into the wide roof/slot (crux). Place your big piece here (#3 or #4 Camalot), and pull left out of the slot and into the corner proper. From here, climb up the corner on excellent jams and ledges. Great rest stances to place pro. About 60 feet up is a fixed anchor to rap from.


Protection 

Bring gear up to #3 Camalot, a #4 Camalot might be handy for the bottom.



Photos of Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist Slideshow Add Photo
The whole route.  The crux is getting past the roof and established in the crack.  There is a cable anchor at the top of the dihedral where the red "C" is shown.
BETA PHOTO: The whole route. The crux is getting past the roo...
Jeanne at the start.
Jeanne at the start.
The crux of the route.
The crux of the route.
If you start here instead of directly below the crack, you can get a #4 in.
If you start here instead of directly below the cr...
Brenda does a lieback about halfway up the climb.
Brenda does a lieback about halfway up the climb.
Comments on Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2011
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 22, 2002

I first did this thinkingi it was hollow flake! I really like a #11 HEX to get youthrough the opening moves. getting to the HEX is different than getting to the corner!

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2003

This is a pretty fun route, especially for new 5.8 leaders. Hexes work fine too! The first placement is an awsome 3.5 friend. Bring a big sling to backup the goofy anchor at the top.

By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 6, 2003

Great route! The crux is getting past the thin slab at the start and placing your fist piece in the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, there are plenty of good stances along the route to place additional pro. The goofy anchor at the top is a steel cable wrapped around a block with rap rings backed up with a ratty sling. It looked solid, and we made it to the ground in one piece...

By Larry Shaw
Jun 12, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Stood on the small boulder to place a #4 Camalot for the first piece. The traverse left was the crux. Once you are established in the dihedral the climbing is straightforward and fun.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Moving from the tricky slab, to the fist crack, to the hand crack is classic. The rest of the route is fun too.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 27, 2005

Anchor on top is now ratty cable w/ some rusty chains looped through it. It had some duct tape stuck to it for confidence builder. Made it to bottom ok. Short climb.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Aug 23, 2005

After watching a guy blow the inital moves on the slab before getting any gear (hope your ankle is okay), I started on the slab with small crack system and made my way right to the main dihedral. Sure its easier, but my ankles feel fine. Take a look at the first picture below and you'll see what I'm talking about.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Matt, then you miss out on doing the "Captain Fist" move!

By Buff Johnson
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Good technical fist problem, perfect fist jams. Protection was placed before committing, so I don't see how the groundfall potential could deter a [competent] 5.8 climber from trying this route. There are also some good moves up the line to the anchor. I thought this was quite fun & would climb it again.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 19, 2007

I agree with Mark. The slab start shouldn't deter the competent 5.8 leader. Moves to get 1st pro are perhaps as much as 5.7. One can place pro up high in the chimney to the climber's right to keep from tumbling down left if one does take a fall. Of course, you will still deck and will want to remove the chimney piece before finishing the pitch.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 29, 2007

With my reach, I was able to stand deep in the overhang and get a #4 set in the bottom of the crack before launching onto the slab. Once that piece was set, it was actually quite fun traversing out of the overhang and onto the vertical section.

By Lohmeier
Jul 16, 2007

Nice variation, climb as described about half way up the corner, and cut right then up following the hand to fist to offwidth crack. Short (20ft) but very fun if you like crack and is a bit harder than the start. Can be protected with a 1 or 2, a 3 further up, and if you like more pro a 4 by the little chalkstone (C4s). Top out and trav. a foot ledge to the left 5 feet to the normal cable anchor, or continue up the leaning tower to the bolted anchor on the top.

By Larry C. Schubarth
From: colorado springs, colorado
Apr 21, 2008

The original name of this route is MIGHTY JOE YOUNG put up by Gregg Stevens and I in 1977.

By Stewart M. Green
May 21, 2008

This route was climbed before 1977. I believe Brian Teale and Dan Morrison did in about 1974...

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Very like Yorkshire gritstone! VS 5a.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A fairly tough start for a 5.8 getting around that roof corner -- but it protects great with a #4 Camalot. Once you're past that, it's a lot of fun doing a lieback up the rest of the dihedral.