This route should get a little more beginner attention. Other than a wide section on the first pitch this route is easily protected, the hard stuff is right off the ground, and it is fairly comfortable on the new leader's sense of exposure.
It does feel stiff for the grade, until you are 15 feet off the deck. Then the technical difficulties ease and the rest of the route is fun.
There is a danger of decking if you fall from the last few moves of hte first pitch, as there is little gear in the chimney section and you'd have lots of rope out. Fortunately the climbing is easy and there are large trees you could sling.
Pitch 1: Climb the wide crack and chimney to a small but nice ledge. Build an anchor.
Pitch2: Climb up the short face to a dirt ledge, continue up, moving right onto the lower summit of Tower. Walk south til you come to the base of the upper summit of Tower.
Pitch 3: Climb up and right across a ledge to a short, steep chimney. Move to the outside and DON'T FALL! Once past the first couple moves it eases up and in a few short breaths you'll be on top.
Best bet it to rappel Caver's, but you can rappel the route with a little downclimbing as well.
Near the northwest corner of Tower. The crack angles slightly left and widens considerably on the first pitch.
Hand and fist sized gear. Bring some nuts for the belay on the second pitch and for protection on the short section of 5th class there as well. Tree anchors otherwise.
Mar 17, 2014
When I think of any climbs under 5.5... I think of easy...as in you can put a 5 year old on the route and they can climb it. A 5 year old can't climb this. This is a 5.6 route.