This is one of my favorite problems at Carter, reminiscent more of the steep, crimpy lines at Hueco Tanks than most Dakota fare.
It can be ass-started for the full V5 grade, or done from a stand-up at V4.
Begin low and left of the crack line in the center of the wall, sit-starting on incut slots/crimps. Pimp up tinies for a move or two, slap left to the arete, then power up for better holds, including a fractured-looking but seemingly bomber flake. Mantel over to finish, watching for loose rocks over the lip.
A crashpad or two.
|By Jeremy Franz|
From: Berthoud, CO
Apr 29, 2009
Aka Dicey Prow according to Benningfield.
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2010
I don't know where there used to be a good flake on this problem, but I found it very difficult. Starting laying down under the main features of the wall, I pulled up to a crimp sidepull and then a big move out left to a nice crimp incut. Then a good heel allows getting to the pebbly crimp in the middle of the face, and another big move to the arete. Now I couldn't put the moves together, but releasing and moving the feet was Hard, and the only move left seemed a big move with the right hand to a pebbly spot at the top of the arete (this is the move Matt G is holding in the picture). Maybe that is where the flake used to be? This is harder than V5, at least the way I thought it went.