This is a weird, trickier-than-it-looks sport climb that feels slippery in spots with a few cruxes in its short length just left of Short Dude. Move up on face moves to a thin stretch. The first crux involves a thin left foot move. There's a part where it's just hard to get the hands right. Now move up under a roof. It's a bit awkward to pull over the roof to the right, and somehow the rock gives you a bit less confidence. Now up to the anchors...phew.
For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.
This is the second from the right bolted line on this 3rd face from the left. It is just left of Short Dude.
7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with a ring and a chain.
Between the weird hands part and the roof.
Fairly good route, probably one of the better warm...
|By Nathaniel Dray|
May 24, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pulling directly over the roof and not escaping to the right felt harder than 5.10. It involved an awkward lieback and a tough wide pinch to pull over. More satisfying than taking the easy way out to the right.