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THE DODGE
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By Tradoholic
Feb 7, 2009

Yea, I don't think The Dodge will be climbable for a while. Also, due to melting I don't think The Lake will be either. Warm temps are BAD when there's snow :)
Calm down Chris, there will be plenty of outdoor to do soon, you will have to slum it at Boulders until then :)
John, I have an old guidebook from El Potrero I got in 2001 if you want to see it. I think Ed wrote it. The beta is to fly to Monterrey and have climbing hosts pick you up. Crossing the boarder with a car is particularly shady nowadays.


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By John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Feb 9, 2009
Breakfast of Champions <br /> <br />Photo by: Mike Lohre

I was just at the lake on Saturday Feb. 7th. I was a great day! We did Birch Tree Crack, Stretcher, Upper Diagonal and Lower Diagonal. After that, I led Birch Tree Crack for my warm-down of the day.
www.mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/devils_lake/east_bluff__>>>

Some climbs were wet, while others were perfectly dry. Just head up to the east and walk around.

I was joking about heading down to El Potrero, not this year. But thanks alot for the offer of the guidebook and the beta on getting down there.


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By Paul Campbell
From Pewaukee, WI
Feb 9, 2009
Climbing Waimea 5.10d Rumney, NH

Saturday was amazing for climbing!

John and I were even at the lake last weekend Sunday Feb. 1st

Get off your lazy bums! You already missed two great weekends :P


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By Tradoholic
Feb 9, 2009

Yes, I was definitely proved wrong, but there are many weekends ahead! I'm still healin' up anyway.
I heard Huston was working another hard route???????
Vince says that if anyone goes climbing at the Dodge at this time they should be kicked in the balls because they are going to break holds off the wet sandstone ;)
Stick to the Lake for now I guess.


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By John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Feb 10, 2009
Breakfast of Champions <br /> <br />Photo by: Mike Lohre

I totally agree with Vince. I won't be climbing any sandstone until a bit later into spring.


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Feb 10, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Vince the enforcer, broken tooth and all, pretty scary sight. Yup, it's wet, no doubt about it. No climbing until at least March with all the snow. This was kind of interesting. Also hiked on the ridge from the turnoff for Twin Valley campground out towards the cave, and found very little of bouldering interest. The cave itself is pretty cool, it's small, and the rock is very sandy.

I have it from a reliable source that the climber in question was on Rubberman on Sunday. No word on the send. Have to check with his sponsors.


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By SteveSchultz
Feb 10, 2009

Yeah, cause vince has never broken any holds at dodge.

Sandstone is soft, but it's still workable depending on what problem you get on. Give it a couple of days and be careful. If it breaks now, more than likely it was going to break anyways.


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Feb 10, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

A voice of reason! I can tell you I broke what appeared to be good holds last summer on 1) All in the Family, 2) Internet Predator, and 3) Daydream Arete (or whatever the V5ish version of that is). All of these were on dry days, and probaby really happened because I am a fatass and the rock is/was soft. I figured I was doing a cleanup service for the rest of you. You're welcome.


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By Tradoholic
Feb 10, 2009

That looks like a good boulder Chris!
Ah....yea....seriously, I think people should stay off the sandstone.
Steve, didn't YOU break off the key hold on Secret Agent Man?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Feb 10, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Steve what hold (where was it?) did you break? Fess up dude!

Agree about staying off at the Dodge until bone dry. I seriously don't know what I was thinking, that somehow bouldering in February was even a possibility. Just psyched I guess.


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By SteveSchultz
Feb 11, 2009

Of course i broke a hold on SAM. I thought it was common knowledge. It was prefectly dry that day, and the week prior. I've broken multiple holds at dodge. Most people have. With increased traffic it would have broken anyways. It was the first right hand hold on the arete after leaving the third bolt and this was a couple years ago. The thing has had a bunch of repeats since and it didn't change the grade.

Fact is, it was bone dry and in the middle of summer and it still broke. oh well. Things happen.

I'd say get off of people's backs for climbing at Dodge right now. If someone breaks a hold, it was more than likely going to happen anyways.

Now, enough of the bickering about bouldering in wisco. What's the temp up there right now? Like 35 or something?? It's 60 down here in chattanooga. Have a great rest of the week guys!! I'll be back to enjoy the heinous conditions next week. yay.


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By Tradoholic
Feb 11, 2009

Sure, sure, Steve, or maybe you CRUSH too hard?


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Feb 11, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Oh well, Steve, no biggie, that sounds like it was well before the crux section (even if it was in the crux what're you gonna do, shit breaks). Although if it avoids an asskicking from 'The Enforcer' I will hold off until kosher. I guess that explains what Chris Hirsch was talking about in his comments under the route description. Jealous, wish I was somewhere warm. Tho it was nice and warm at Boulders tonight, slummin it as Nick says.


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Feb 14, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Oh yeah, you can see the hold Jay's about to go for is gone now, right? In the other shot he's on it with right hand. It certainly is pretty crappy now (what's left over), but yeah, this section is still 5.10 climbing on the way to the hard part. Good bit of route history.


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 7, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Deer ticks out IN FORCE this year. Both my buddy Jay and I had a dozen or so we picked off last weekend (seemed to be more near The Complex) and each of us ended up on antibiotics for one we missed. FYI the current recommendation is for a deer tick (the small ones) that has been attached more than 24 hours you should get a single dose of an antibiotic (doxycycline) to decrease the risk of Lyme disease from 3% to 1%. Anyway, that is what an ID doc told me. Nasty little buggers.


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By AJ O.
From Chicago
Apr 7, 2009
Ro Shampo (Red River Gorge)

I'm thinking about making my first trip up to dodge this weekend. I guess I need to watch for ticks, but other than that how's the rock? Is there a crowd up there on the weekends?

Also if anyone is already headed up there feel free to email me at aodonnell.atc@gmail.com. This is my first trip up there and it would be awesome if I could get some beta from anyone.


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By sweatpants
From Broomfield, CO
Apr 8, 2009
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Eggert... a year ago would you have ever thought you'd be asked if there are crouds on the weekends at the dodge for climbing? How funny.
I'm sure there will be a couple people here and there. seems to be thr resent trent but you should be more than fine by printing out the mini guides off of here. I would start at group camp B and kind of go from there. Good luck dude!


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 12, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Please see this comment about current issues related to climbing at the Dodge. The explosion in development has apparently not gone unnoticed. IMO there is nothing different about bouldering here or at the Lake, Taylor's Falls, etc. except the exponential rise in people doing it at the Dodge may be of some concern to those who run the place.


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By Dobbe
Jun 1, 2009

This post was originally a comment in Governor Dodge State Park

So I would like to take a moment to point out that Remo is not only the second highest contributed in the last 30 days but also is on the all time list. Remo I thought I was a M.P whore, shit man. Nice work Remo.


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By Langlois
From NYC
Jun 1, 2009

This post was originally a comment in Governor Dodge State Park

Adam Remus Doin Work!


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jun 8, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Melin, NIAD Nose in a day!!! About half way down the page is a pair on the King Swing, that's Trav and Ben. Sweet! Congrats!


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Jun 8, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Wow NIAD!

Congrats Travis and Ben.


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By Remo
From Madison, WI
Jun 8, 2009
Out to the slot. <br />Photo: Ben Fellenz

I'm inspired. Congrats Trav and Ben- great job!


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jun 11, 2009
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got to try it again -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.

Sweatpants is gettin hitched!!! Congrats buddy!


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By Tradoholic
Jun 11, 2009

To what?!?!?!?


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