The Mountain Project description for Major Mass includes the following?

"The formation contains a good range of climbs with good exposure and length (80-100 feet). The formation lends itself to multipitch climbing (Midwest style), allowing up to four pitches of climbing from the base of the Red Slab to the top of Jungle Gym Tower."


Has anyone here done this? The first pitch mentioned, "Red Slab" doesn't sound like much to get excited about. It seems like there would be a lot of scrambling between pitches. Is it more climbing than scrambling at least?

Is there a decent set of routes up the bluff to make it worthwhile?

-Glenn

I would agree for the most part that a form of multi-pitch climbing could be done in the Major mass area. I wouldn't climb "Red Slab" though.... its kind of a lousy climb... well atleast the climbing isn't that good on this route compared to other routes in the area. "Mindless Dribble" would be a better more adventurous option near "Red Slab" although it doesn't have great gear options all along the route and is somewhat run-out. There are many pitches in this area one could link up and have good to great climbing and at least as good to great climbing as Major Mass has to offer. There would still be a bit of scrambling (both up and down) to do these route links...
I can think of a few right off the bat... "Innocence" to "Jolly Roger" or "Hammer Crack" to "Darkest Hour" to "Angels Crack". "Seventh Buttress Routes" to "Jungle Gym Tower" (by any of its routes) to "Cedar Tree Wall" then finish on and actual "Devils Doorway" formation routes (kind of a final true summit with no where else to go up to but down). At Minor Mass maybe "B-Minor Mass" to "A Cheval" or maybe "Green Ledges" If you climb enough of the varied routes in these areas over time I think it will make sense.

To me, there is little in Major Mass that flows together into multi-pitch climbing, because there is dirt and vegetation on all the intermediate ledges, and because you need/want to move the belay before you start up the next level of almost any link-up.

I think you will have more fun if you put together a Major Mass "circuit" rather than trying to shoehorn in a "multi-pitch link-up." For example, if I was going to do a four pitch circuit that included Jungle Gym, I'd go Dippy D., Angel's Crack, Jungle Gym, Bloody Finger. If you want something easier, substitute Kenosis at the bottom and Romper at the top - harder and I'd do Jolly Roger & Mary Jane.

It would be easy to put together a 10-pitch circuit without leaving Major Mass ....

If you want to do multi-pitch at Devil's Lake, then I highly recommend Turks Head Ridge. Sure it's not The Diamond, but it's a fun way to get continuous climbing at the Lake.

Thanks for that Jay!

-Glenn

No problem Glen. Let me know what you think of Turks Head Ridge if you do it. I have fond memories of that climb--I used to do it weekly when I lived in Baraboo.

In all the years I've climbed at DL I'd never climbed Turk's Head Ridge until a couple of weeks ago. It was most excellent and easy enough where I felt fine without a rope--although there were a few spicy moves. Highly recommended.

My last two Devil's Lake trips since this thread have gotten weathered out :( Not sure if I'll get to Turks Head this season. I'm off to the Red this weekend and then Red Rock, NV two weeks later! I'm pretty psyched!!!

-Glenn

Turks Head Ridge is great fun. My climbing partner and I are just getting started with trad and found this to be very good multi-pitch practice. There are a few places where you feel silly being roped-up, but then a few others places where we were glad of it.