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Midwest Bouldering Guide

Original Post
AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

I have been toying with the idea of making a Midwest bouldering guide. I would want it to focus on the "unknown" areas and the areas that have potential, but get less travel from the climbing community. If interested in helping and co-authoring reply to this post. Also, if you are really interested then post your email and I will contact you.

PTZ · · Chicago/Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 490

I think it is a cool idea. There needs to be something to send us to to the goods. The best areas I have been to in the Midwest are:
Jackson Falls in So-IL.
Black River Falls, Wi
Devils lake, Wi

I'll share any info I can with you.

AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

Yea SO ILL bouldering scene already has some stuff in print. I would really like to highlight areas if little or no information already in print. So like Wichita mtn in OK, sime locations in Kansas, elephant rocks in MO, some other areas in OK, SO ILL locations, Westby is WI, Devils Lake, Govnor state park WI, Custer state park in SD, and others.

Are there any locations you know well or have visited that you can think of that are in the category of "unknown?"

Trevor Williamson · · Freeburg, IL · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

hey man im a photographer and am interesting in doing some road trips around the midwest to boulder and put up a solid guide book.

im in bariloche argentina at the moment, but will be back in the so ILL area by april 4th.

sounds like a great idea, and loads of fun.

to talk more
email me at earthsurfercinema@gmail.com

thanks, "swiss¨ trevor williamson

AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

Greg,

I completely agree with your input about MP being a great resource, but at the same time MP has a lot of downfalls.

Yes, MP has been a great tool for climbers in the Midwest by helping them find areas, but the material on here is often poor quality.

If others and I do work on this it is not to highlight areas that have already well known sources of beta or great aids to help climbers. It will be to help spots that have nothing on them or improve the quality of info.

If you live near an area that you know well and think it would fit the term of "unknown" then let's talk and hopefully you and be a part of this to!

My goal would be to have an author of each different section, kind of like a big group project.

fat cow · · St. Paul, MN · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

not sure but i think there may already be a book on DL bouldering. to make it comprehensive along with most other areas in the midwest, you're going to end up with something along the lines of bible thickness. it would be cool, but who knows if you'd ever make back the money you allocated, not to mention the time. goodluck, dont forget the obscure gems!

edit: nevermind i'm an idiot, you specifically say it would be about the lesser traveled potential. sounds awesome, don't forget Westby!

Turd Ferguson! · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,947

Really?!?! Removed post?! I live and climb in Wisco in the summer and I thought that was a funny ass post! And it also brought up a good point, but maybe not in the best style. But, The season for friction can be just as short here as it can be in other places.

AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

Jon would you be interested it helping?

andyedwards · · OR · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 205

I design books, and might be interested in helping.

AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

Really? That is good to hear. What is your email?

andyedwards · · OR · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 205
Eero46 wrote:Really? That is good to hear. What is your email?
Just PM me.
Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
fat cow wrote:not sure but i think there may already be a book on DL bouldering.!
If you know of a book I don't, please help me out. Eric Z. put out a very brief guide to a lot of the east bluff spots, but it isn't even close to comprehensive with all the bouldering development going on at the lake.
Jeff Howard · · Hales Corners WI · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

Eric Zschiesche published a guide to DL bouldering around 2000 I am going to say and it would be a great starting point for the lake since many of the problems done today are included. He is a MP member.

AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698
aed wrote: Just PM me.
PM on here is chaos. What is your email?
AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

In regards to the bouldering guide to Devils Lake. There is not one, but I do have pdf of brief guide by Eric Z. if you are interested.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Jeff Howard wrote:Eric Zschiesche published a guide to DL bouldering around 2000 I am going to say and it would be a great starting point for the lake since many of the problems done today are included. He is a MP member.
It is a great start, and it is linked on Devil's Lake Bouldering page, kind of. A little updated, according to the comments.
Jay F. Weekly · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 10

Eric's guide was called Git on It! Good luck finding a copy, though- I think they're officially collector's items at this point...

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Jay F. Weekly wrote:Eric's guide was called Git on It! Good luck finding a copy, though- I think they're officially collector's items at this point...
That's what is said about the Extremist Guide. Anybody need a copy? Somebody has to have a copy of Git on It. It will be found.
AKSClimbs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 4,698

I have a copy. I might just post it to Devils page

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,947

I have a copy of Get it on and the Extremist Guide. I "live" in Madison, Let me know if you want to see/use them. I climb at Boulders whenever in town.

Also, I am not willing to help. Sorry. I don't have much free time nor a love for bouldering to put in the work.

Good luck! And I will buy one if it ever gets finished as I collect guidebooks, especially to the Midwest.

Also, I would LOVE to see a printed guide to the bouldering at the Lake and G dodge...well, really of all southern Wisco.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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