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As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.
Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.
10 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midway Rock:
Diagonal Left 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Gooney Dunes 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport
Self Abuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Turning Point 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Urchins Ate the Coral 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Midway Rock
Self Abuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Midway Rock
Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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