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Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Application T 
Bin, The T 
Blotto AKA Axis T 
Dirty Little Secret T 
English Breakfast Crack T 
Entrance Exam T 
Goldilocks T 
Gripper T 
Leanie Meanie T 
Midterm T 
New Dimensions T 
Short Circuit TR 
Short Circuit Chimney S 
Sidetrack T 
Supplication T 
TKO T 
Unsorted Routes:

Midterm 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost, August 1964
Page Views: 5,017
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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BETA PHOTO: The beautiful Midterm at Arch Rock

2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.

The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!

What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.

When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.

Location 

Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff

Protection 

1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section


Photos of Midterm Slideshow Add Photo
Fingers at the start of Midterm
Fingers at the start of Midterm
Climbing Midterm march 2010
Climbing Midterm march 2010

Comments on Midterm Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 7, 2014
By Zach Allen
Feb 24, 2007

You really won't use anything larger than #4 camalot, which you can use for the transition into the squeeze. The squeeze at the top is too big for #6 camalot I think, and you would be hard pressed to fall out. There is a chockstone with slings to clip in the back of the squeeze, and then maybe 20 more feet to a bolted rap on the left wall. Awesome route!
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 7, 2007

What a line this is. I brought a #5 camalot (C4), and was glad to have it.
By skiclimber
Oct 19, 2007

I brought the #5 c4 camalot and was stoked to have it. The 10b fingures is easy compared to the physical nature of moving in the squeeze. The chockstone is crap and I would not want to find out if it could hold. You can push the 5 for a bit in the back and it fits perfect. This pitch is excellent and a great journey in tecnique through almost every size.
By Joe Stern
Feb 10, 2008

Really fun climbing through a variety of techniques. Short crux at the bottom. I'm a proponent of Zach's gear recommendation: if you're comfortable on moderate chimneys, you won't need any big gear. Also, watch out for the poison oak inside the chimney. This route gets direct sun in the middle of the day, so plan accordingly and enjoy!
By Dennis
Feb 22, 2008

Used a C4 #4, #5, #6. The chockstone is definitely crap and rattled a bit upon inspection. I was able to walk the #6 up until about 10 ft below the chains. Echoing Skiclimber's comments, it really is an amazing journey through the sizes.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 30, 2008

Is there still a beehive inside of this thing? I came to do it in October of 1997 and was bouted by bees. Haven't returned, but someday I would like to if the bees are gone.
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 15, 2009

no bees as of jan 09
By Dusty Cams
Apr 7, 2009

The poison ivy is alive and well, Climbed last weekend and have it all over the right side of my body--be careful!
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 8, 2009

As of Dec 5, '09:

-No poison oak
-Chockstone's gone
-Chimney still physical as hell
-Perfect winter climb
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Apr 1, 2010

As of March 26 2010 theres poison oak at the top of the climb, just below the anchors. This climb is excellent! Great gear! Excellent jambs and fun squeeze chimney. Lots of variety on the Midterm.
By EldoFiend
From: WY
Apr 12, 2010

You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting.
By chulho "charles" chang
From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Apr 21, 2010

Climbed April 2010- must weave your way through poison oak to get to anchors. Be careful not to touch it with gears hanging from your harness.

also noticed that at the bottom parking area, entire trail is surrounded by poison oak- we didn't notice it on the way up because leaves were small and brown, but it's definitely poison oak. Be careful.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 23, 2010

As of mid May '10, lots of bees buzzing around the fingercrack, but no nest I could find. P-oak at the anchor. Stuck old #4 camalot in back of the squeeze.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 24, 2011

Old #4 is still stuck. Most of the Poison oak is gone from the anchor (bushes still there but no leaves). Great weather right now for midterm. Squeak Squeak goes the rubber!
By John Long
Jul 20, 2011

Possibly the best rock in the world.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 20, 2012

One of my favorite pitches.
By busik
Jan 21, 2014

c4 #5 was useful for first few meters of the squeeze.
probably number 4 would work, but i left it on transition from fist to ow.
finger-crack start is super polished.

and yes, old #4 is still there
By Patrick O'Neil
From: Santa Clara, CA
Feb 25, 2014

I found this to be, shall I say, not casual for .10b
By JKVawter
Sep 7, 2014

I think this was my first 5.10 lead in April 1974, in a borrowed pair of PAs, which were great in the crack and chimney above the ledge, but not so good in the slick finger section at the bottom. I had to chalk my right shoulder to get a little more traction in that lower section. The biggest thing we carried in those days was either an 11 Hexcentric, or a bong that we placed without a hammer.