The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.
The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!
What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a polished chimney.
When you reach the anchors, take deep breaths and marvel at this classic climb, and wonder why size 8 friends never caught on.
Located in the middle of the Arch Rock cliff
1 set nuts, 2 sets cams. V Large cams useful for upper section
Fingers at the start of Midterm Climbing Midterm march 2010
|By Zach Allen|
Feb 24, 2007
You really won't use anything larger than #4 camalot, which you can use for the transition into the squeeze. The squeeze at the top is too big for #6 camalot I think, and you would be hard pressed to fall out. There is a chockstone with slings to clip in the back of the squeeze, and then maybe 20 more feet to a bolted rap on the left wall. Awesome route!
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 7, 2007
What a line this is. I brought a #5 camalot (C4), and was glad to have it.
Oct 19, 2007
I brought the #5 c4 camalot and was stoked to have it. The 10b fingures is easy compared to the physical nature of moving in the squeeze. The chockstone is crap and I would not want to find out if it could hold. You can push the 5 for a bit in the back and it fits perfect. This pitch is excellent and a great journey in tecnique through almost every size.
|By Joe Stern|
Feb 10, 2008
Really fun climbing through a variety of techniques. Short crux at the bottom. I'm a proponent of Zach's gear recommendation: if you're comfortable on moderate chimneys, you won't need any big gear. Also, watch out for the poison oak inside the chimney. This route gets direct sun in the middle of the day, so plan accordingly and enjoy!
Feb 22, 2008
Used a C4 #4, #5, #6. The chockstone is definitely crap and rattled a bit upon inspection. I was able to walk the #6 up until about 10 ft below the chains. Echoing Skiclimber's comments, it really is an amazing journey through the sizes.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 30, 2008
Is there still a beehive inside of this thing? I came to do it in October of 1997 and was bouted by bees. Haven't returned, but someday I would like to if the bees are gone.
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 15, 2009
no bees as of jan 09
|By Dusty Cams|
Apr 7, 2009
The poison ivy is alive and well, Climbed last weekend and have it all over the right side of my body--be careful!
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 8, 2009
As of Dec 5, '09:
-No poison oak
-Chimney still physical as hell
-Perfect winter climb
|By armando fimbrez|
From: rancho cucamonga
Apr 1, 2010
As of March 26 2010 theres poison oak at the top of the climb, just below the anchors. This climb is excellent! Great gear! Excellent jambs and fun squeeze chimney. Lots of variety on the Midterm.
Apr 12, 2010
You could certainly place a BD 5 and 6 once you get into the chimney. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but running out the top half of the climb on slightly slick rock is a touch exciting.
|By chulho "charles" chang|
From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Apr 21, 2010
Climbed April 2010- must weave your way through poison oak to get to anchors. Be careful not to touch it with gears hanging from your harness.
also noticed that at the bottom parking area, entire trail is surrounded by poison oak- we didn't notice it on the way up because leaves were small and brown, but it's definitely poison oak. Be careful.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
May 23, 2010
As of mid May '10, lots of bees buzzing around the fingercrack, but no nest I could find. P-oak at the anchor. Stuck old #4 camalot in back of the squeeze.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Jan 24, 2011
Old #4 is still stuck. Most of the Poison oak is gone from the anchor (bushes still there but no leaves). Great weather right now for midterm. Squeak Squeak goes the rubber!
|By John Long|
Jul 20, 2011
Possibly the best rock in the world.
Jan 21, 2014
c4 #5 was useful for first few meters of the squeeze.
probably number 4 would work, but i left it on transition from fist to ow.
finger-crack start is super polished.
and yes, old #4 is still there
|By Patrick O'Neil|
From: Santa Clara, CA
Feb 25, 2014
I found this to be, shall I say, not casual for .10b