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Midsummer Dome, South Face Center 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick DuMais & Dick Williams, 1971
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,990
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Diagram of the South Face Center route on Midsumme...

Description 

This route is so good it needs to be on this web site. It was put up in the 1970's and graded 5.9 - this will give you an idea of what has occurred in terms of grade creep over the years- it is truly stout for the grade.

Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.
Approach Pitch - 4th class - I suggest you belay the upper portion of the ramp as it is now grass choked and exposed.
Pitch 1 5.8- Just left of a dirty overhanging corner two cracks converge in a point about 10-12 feet up. the right crack is fat/knee locks, the left is a seam with grass in it. Climb this until you can get gear in the top right of the overhanger corner then proceed up and then traverse right to a ledge/belay.
Optional pitch 1 - 5.9 stout: To the left of the first pitch is a stunning left facing corner that flares at the top - climb this then traverse across flakes to the belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.9 stout: Pick a path essentially straight up from the belay past the least dirty sections to then climb a well featured face, eventually traversing left to a shallow, steep right facing flake. Climb this strenuous lieback flake then step right to a belay ledge.
Pitch 3 - 5.6: Climb up and left over flakes/small ledges until you eventually intersect the main left facing dihedrals.
Pitch 4 - 5.9 stout: Climb up through an offwidth and an overhanging section to the base of a clean corner. Climb it.
Pitch 5 - climb up easy terrain to a tree covered ledge top belay. Exit left and up.

Location 

Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack (camming units very useful).


Photos of Midsummer Dome, South Face Center Slideshow Add Photo
Just after the crux of pitch 2
Just after the crux of pitch 2
Topo of Midsummer dome south face center dihedral route
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Midsummer dome south face center dihedral ...

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