Midsummer Dome, South Face Center
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.9 from 22 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Dick DuMais & Dick Williams, 1971 |
Page Views: | 5,554 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This route is so good it needs to be on this web site. It was put up in the 1970's and graded 5.9 - this will give you an idea of what has occurred in terms of grade creep over the years- it is truly stout for the grade.
Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.
Approach Pitch - 4th class - I suggest you belay the upper portion of the ramp as it is now grass choked and exposed.
Pitch 1 5.8- Just left of a dirty overhanging corner two cracks converge in a point about 10-12 feet up. the right crack is fat/knee locks, the left is a seam with grass in it. Climb this until you can get gear in the top right of the overhanger corner then proceed up and then traverse right to a ledge/belay.
Optional pitch 1 - 5.9 stout: To the left of the first pitch is a stunning left facing corner that flares at the top - climb this then traverse across flakes to the belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.9 stout: Pick a path essentially straight up from the belay past the least dirty sections to then climb a well featured face, eventually traversing left to a shallow, steep right facing flake. Climb this strenuous lieback flake then step right to a belay ledge.
Pitch 3 - 5.6: Climb up and left over flakes/small ledges until you eventually intersect the main left facing dihedrals.
Pitch 4 - 5.9 stout: Climb up through an offwidth and an overhanging section to the base of a clean corner. Climb it.
Pitch 5 - climb up easy terrain to a tree covered ledge top belay. Exit left and up.
Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.
Approach Pitch - 4th class - I suggest you belay the upper portion of the ramp as it is now grass choked and exposed.
Pitch 1 5.8- Just left of a dirty overhanging corner two cracks converge in a point about 10-12 feet up. the right crack is fat/knee locks, the left is a seam with grass in it. Climb this until you can get gear in the top right of the overhanger corner then proceed up and then traverse right to a ledge/belay.
Optional pitch 1 - 5.9 stout: To the left of the first pitch is a stunning left facing corner that flares at the top - climb this then traverse across flakes to the belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.9 stout: Pick a path essentially straight up from the belay past the least dirty sections to then climb a well featured face, eventually traversing left to a shallow, steep right facing flake. Climb this strenuous lieback flake then step right to a belay ledge.
Pitch 3 - 5.6: Climb up and left over flakes/small ledges until you eventually intersect the main left facing dihedrals.
Pitch 4 - 5.9 stout: Climb up through an offwidth and an overhanging section to the base of a clean corner. Climb it.
Pitch 5 - climb up easy terrain to a tree covered ledge top belay. Exit left and up.
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