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Midnight Surf

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Arms S 
Babyface S 
Cell Block Six S 
Crucible, The S 
Iniquity S 
Mellow Yellow S 
Shiva S 
Tapeworm S 
Tree Hugger S 

Midnight Surf Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Jason Halladay, DisturbingThePeace, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009


61° | 51°

52° | 47°

56° | 54°

58° | 40°

48° | 33°
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Enjoying the excellent Iniquity at Midnight Surf.

Muir Valley access MORE INFO >>>


Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.

Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.

Most draws are fixed with metal cables.

Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.

Getting There 

Newer area of Muir Valley. Follow the directions for Weber Hollow until you see some signs leading to MN SURF (Midnight Surf).

As far as I know there are 2 ways to get there. The first path shares destination with the Boneyard and is quite long and tiring. second path is just passed the Solarium and climbs a flight of stairs to the bottom of the crag. Much easier.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.6 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Midnight Surf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midnight Surf:
Tree Hugger   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Iniquity   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Babyface   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cell Block Six   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Crucible   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   
Tapeworm   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midnight Surf

Featured Route For Midnight Surf
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike setting up for the first crux.

Tapeworm 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Midnight Surf
Tapeworm is the other "must-do" route at Midnight Surf, along with Cell Block Six, & Iniquity. However, Tapeworm (mostly*) lacks the no-hands rests that ruin the continuity of its neighbors. The climbing is more of the same: huge moves between horizontal breaks, culminating in a big pump and a heart-breaking boulder problem just below the chains. Begin up the fragile, left-facing flake. Easier moves lead between horizontal bands. Around the 3rd bolt, a difficult crimp move gains a good jug, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of Midnight Surf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Midnight Surf cliffband.
The Midnight Surf cliffband.

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