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Elevation: 40 ft
GPS: 35.30221, -120.6947
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,957 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Knight on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description Suggest change

Midnight Spire is a detached spire located near Jam Crack Wall and the left side of P-Wall. The two most popular routes face north and are typically in the shade (great destination on a hot day). Great views and great exposure from the top of the spire. Check it out when you're looking for something different.

Getting There Suggest change

To access Midnight Spire, take the trail to P-Wall. Turn left at P-Wall, pass Garden Wall and continue up to the “notch” between the Spire and Jam Crack Wall. When you get to the notch, drop down and left to access the base of “Full Moon” and “Milky Way”. Access "Aurora Borealis" by dropping down and working your way right (counterclockwise) around the spire.

3 Total Climbs

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me on top
me on top
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Topping out on Full Moon (5.9)
Topping out on Full Moon (5.9)
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Midnight Spire Access Route - Head to P-Wall, then take a left. Work your way along Jam Crack Wall, then drop down when you get to the notch. The north side of the spire has the two most popular routes.
Midnight Spire Access Route - Head to P-Wall, t…
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<br> A. Aurora Borealis 5.10d or A1 13 bolts (in about 30’!). To access the base of this climb, drop down from the notch and work your way counterclockwise around the Spire. Look for a belay bolt down low to protect your belayer from falling over the steep drop. Good aid practice. Note - it looks harder than 5.10d, but give it a try and let me know. FA (on aid) – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. FA (free) – Ken Klis 1996.<br> <br> B. Milky Way 5.9 * 4 bolts. An interesting climb that you should do at least once. Crux is between bolts 1 and 2. You can tie in your belayer via a bolt on the block at the base of the route. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995.<br> <br> C. Full Moon (Original Start) 5.9 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start at the “bush” and go straight up past 2 bolts. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper portion. An interesting route that wanders through several cracks and ledges. The crux is getting past the first bolt. A fun route worth doing at least once. Nice way to reach the top of the spire. Lead bolts and anchor replaced in 2009. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. <br> <br> C.1. Ramp Start (Variation) 5.6/5.7 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start on the ramp to the right of the original start for “Full Moon” then join the route at bolt 2. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper section. You can make it harder by climbing direct or easier by wandering up the various ramps and ledges. <br> <br> D. Spire Access 5.4 Small to medium gear. Simply a way to get to the top if you want to set up a top rope. Protect with gear or scramble to the top making one exposed 5.4 move. <br> <br> E. Unknown Trad Route 5.6 Small to medium gear. This route is located on the south side of the spire (overlooking Foothill Blvd.). Continue up the left trending, crack/ramp to the anchors. There may be another TR on this side of the Spire that drops straight down from the anchors. <br>
A. Aurora Borealis 5.10d or A1 13 bolts (in a…
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