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Midnight Rock
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear.... 
Description
A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.
A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.
A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.
L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):
A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.
Upper Ledge L->R:
AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.
. Pirate Radio
A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.
A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.
L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):
A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, 1p, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
Q. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
R. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
S. Voila, 12-, 1p, bolts.
Upper Ledge L->R:
AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.
. Pirate Radio
Getting There
Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.
Climbing Season
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',8],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Midnight Rock:
Featured Route For Midnight Rock
This is located up and around the corner to the right from Weather Report. Climb the steep colorful wall just right of Grande Finale. It has 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side. Deus Ex Machina ...
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock - lower right side.
| Comments on Midnight Rock | Add Comment |
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By Chris Cavallaro Aug 1, 2006 |
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon? Thanks! |
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By Garrett Bales From: Lake City, CO Apr 7, 2013 |
Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist.... The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun. |
