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Midnight Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Midnight Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	After Hours Superpowers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	After Midnight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flake Out AKA Flake Roof S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hammer Down S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Jet Stream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Midnight Express S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
	Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Serp du Soleil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Union with Earth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Voila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Weather Report S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	7,269 ft	2,216 m
GPS:	40.00755, -105.40897 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	37,541 total · 124/month
Shared By:	Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook ??.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.

B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.

C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.

F. Around Midnight, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts & pin.

G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.

J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.

K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.

ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.

M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.

O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.

P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.

Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.

R1. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.

R2. Serp du Soleil, 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.

S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.

T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.

BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.

CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.

DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.

EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.

FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.

GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.

HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

? Pirate Radio

Getting There

From the parking area, take the "south" trail (yep, straight south) that is pretty obvious. You will be going over Dream Dome, then Lost Angel, which has descents either side - you want the far one. Look for a branch off the main path right before it hits a campsite, then heads left, away from the rock edge and downhill, eventually ending at an old mine hole. If you get to the mine hole, you're too far - head back up. The gully is fourth class - if you're using your hands much, you probably went too far.

Once half way down the gully, you can easily cross slabs to your left for a hundred hards and you'll get to the rock.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 67 ● Weather Report Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 25 ● Meltdown Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 62 ● Midnight Express Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 33 ● Hack a Drone Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 17 ● Jet Stream Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 26 ● Hammer Down Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 7 ● After Midnight Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● Pirate Radar Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 14 ● Midnight Cowboy Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 29 ● Voila Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 5 ● Flake Out AKA Flake Roof Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 11 ● Cirque du Soleil Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 8 ● Grande Finale Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 7 ● Geminae Cracks Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 5 ● After Hours Superpowers Sport