Midnight Pumpkin  5.11d

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Type:  Sport, 30 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Bertrand Gramont Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Sep 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Head up to the high first bolt, and pull a few tricky moves to overcome the steep bulge. Above this rest up on some good holds and a nice no hands kneebar that allows for full recovery. Rest well as the finish moves were no giveaway and harder than they looked from below.

This one doesn't get climbed much, so don't expect much chalk beta, and watch out for loose holds.

Location 

Left side of Midnight Pumpkin wall, easy to spot as there are two bolts right next to one another.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip
The first and Second bolt (stud with a wire) are about 2 in. apart, weakening the rock, and if one goes, they are both gone.