Start below a giant flake to the right of Schoolroom #1. The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake--awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod--then continue right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot). You may then want to place a 0.5 Camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up, clipping a bolt, to the anchors!
This route is the first route right of Schoolroom #1,and 2 climbs left of Smoke Filled Rooms on a giant flake that trends upriver from 15-40 feet off the ground.
I've never chopped a bolt but I'd like to give it up to those individuals who sacrifice their free time; time when they could be climbing and having fun. Thanks for keeping me safe from climbing rap-bolted routes, terrorists and gay marriage.
Well put Jakobi (whoever you are). Wow, well apparently people read this stuff and it has caused quite a stir. My apologies to Keith, I don't know who chopped this route, or any other route for that matter. Lets stay classy out there.
Sam, it looks like you need to get some of your facts straightened out. Ethics have never left Wall Street, or Anywhere near Moab. Establish routes correctly, that way people enjoy the effort put into it.