This is an excellent, sustained line with varied, interesting climbing from beginning to end. Start up the dihedral (10), waltz up an easy section to a tricky section in a corner (10 c/d). Finish up a crack that's harder than it looks.
Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. This starts up the easier right-hand one.
Rolofson says that 6-7 stoppers or 0.5-0.75 Aliens are useful. If you're a 10 leader, bring the gear. If it's your warm-up, don't bother.
|Comments on Midnight Express
|By david goldstein|
Aug 6, 2006
A couple of interesting moves, but overall, I found this pitch so-so.
|By John Rudolph|
Oct 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
What a nice route. Bolts well spaced, but clean falls. Great variety of moves and techniques. Can be awkward, but if done right the moves are wonderful. Highly recommended.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Connect the bottom dihedral of Midnight Express to upper Stroke of Midnight for a nice 10a.
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I didn't bring gear and I'm so happy I didn't fall, I thought it was hard for 10c.
From: Longmont, Co.
Aug 5, 2012
As of 8/5/12, there is a wasp nest just below the anchor. They were pissed and stung my partner.