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 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Midnight Express 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Jesse Guthrie
Page Views: 1,195
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Aug 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Midnight Express.

Description 

This is an excellent, sustained line with varied, interesting climbing from beginning to end. Start up the dihedral (10), waltz up an easy section to a tricky section in a corner (10 c/d). Finish up a crack that's harder than it looks.


Location 

Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. This starts up the easier right-hand one.


Protection 

Rolofson says that 6-7 stoppers or 0.5-0.75 Aliens are useful. If you're a 10 leader, bring the gear. If it's your warm-up, don't bother.



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By david goldstein
Aug 6, 2006

A couple of interesting moves, but overall, I found this pitch so-so.

By John Rudolph
Oct 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

What a nice route. Bolts well spaced, but clean falls. Great variety of moves and techniques. Can be awkward, but if done right the moves are wonderful. Highly recommended.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Connect the bottom dihedral of Midnight Express to upper Stroke of Midnight for a nice 10a.

By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I didn't bring gear and I'm so happy I didn't fall, I thought it was hard for 10c.

By CHRIS.T
From: Longmont, Co.
Aug 5, 2012

As of 8/5/12, there is a wasp nest just below the anchor. They were pissed and stung my partner.