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Midnight at the Oasis 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: "Canada" Eric Ruljancich on Dec 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A fun balancy and technical route on decent rock. This climbs a lot like the top of Tsunami at Windy Point. The holds are generally plentiful, but choosing how to use them, and keeping the pump at bay is the challenge. The rock is a bit funky, especially at the start, but seems to be decently solid. If the rock were better it would get another star. The movement is quite good.

Location 

Second bolted route from the left. Starts up a broken corner system, with two small saguaros growing just the right. Trends right after the 4th bolt.

Protection 

bolts


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By jbak
Dec 16, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

12b ? You been eatin too much bacon ?
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 16, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

He probably is trying not to confuse us, as he usually does when he calls a climb, "12, eh?"
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Dec 17, 2013

Man, tough crowd.

This is most definitely harder than the wizard, and any 12a I have been on recently. Upper crux hold seems a lot smaller than I remember it, and I would wager that that being taller would make this feel a bit easier.

I might settle for 12a/b, but that is all you are going to get out of this Canadian eh?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 17, 2013

Hahaha tough crowd.
By jbak
Dec 17, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yeah the Wizard is pretty stout for 5.11... :) ;)
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Dec 17, 2013

Hah Hah, John and Joe. Well played, well played.