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Midlife Crisis 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nelson Lunsford
Season: Fall -- closed for raptor nesting from 1 Apr. to 1 Aug.
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Rich F. on Oct 23, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Midlife Crisis bolts.
Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs one pitch -- it starts as steep face climb on small feet and crimps for three bolts, then it has about a 10 foot section of layback then another two or three bolts above the layback flake on easier rock. The crux is getting from the 2nd bolt to the layback, and it is a little height dependent -- will be easier for climbers taller than 6 feet. Overall, it is an excellent climb.


Location 

This is the first route you reach on the Great Big Wall. It climbs the center of the pillar on the left side where the trail intersects the Great Big Wall. (Note, there is a harder climb immediately right that goes up the blunt arete of the pillar.)

I highly recommend Stewart Green's guidebook, "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" for a detailed description of this area and others throughout Colorado!


Protection 

About 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with Unquenchable Thirst, 11b/c). Also, I recommend bringing one or two cams from 0.4 to 0.75 to protect the steep layback crack/flake above the third bolt.



Photos of Midlife Crisis Slideshow Add Photo
Brenda at Midlife Crisis anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Brenda at Midlife Crisis anchors.
Midlife Crisis is #1 in this pic.
BETA PHOTO: Midlife Crisis is #1 in this pic.
Comments on Midlife Crisis Add Comment
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By Nelson Lunsford
Oct 26, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This is one of my routes. We rated it 5.10. It shares an anchor with Unquenchable Thirst which is 11b/c.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 27, 2011

Thanks for putting the route up, Nelson.
Very nicely done.