Midlife Crisis  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Nelson Lunsford Season:  Fall -- closed for raptor nesting from 1 Apr. to 1 Aug. Submitted By:  Rich F. on Oct 23, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Midlife Crisis bolts.

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> Access is closed to climbing April 1 to August 1. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This climbs one pitch -- it starts as steep face climb on small feet and crimps for three bolts, then it has about a 10 foot section of layback then another two or three bolts above the layback flake on easier rock. The crux is getting from the 2nd bolt to the layback, and it is a little height dependent -- will be easier for climbers taller than 6 feet. Overall, it is an excellent climb.

Location 

This is the first route you reach on the Great Big Wall. It climbs the center of the pillar on the left side where the trail intersects the Great Big Wall. (Note, there is a harder climb immediately right that goes up the blunt arete of the pillar.)

I highly recommend Stewart Green's guidebook, "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" for a detailed description of this area and others throughout Colorado!

Protection 

About 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with Unquenchable Thirst, 11b/c). Also, I recommend bringing one or two cams from 0.4 to 0.75 to protect the steep layback crack/flake above the third bolt.

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BETA PHOTO: Brenda at Midlife Crisis anchors.

BETA PHOTO: Midlife Crisis is #1 in this pic.