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This is a very obscure route. I don't think it even made the topo in Selected Climbs. It climbs much better than it looks from the ground though and is very worthy. Looks slabby, but it is actually quite pumpy at times. I'm posting it here in hopes that someone will climb it and beat back the lichen. I doubt it has seen any traffic lately, so it might need cleaning.
Slabby-looking buttress to the right of Fire Wall with some bolts 15' up. Ends at the Hanging Garden.
Bolts, pins, gear. Protects reasonably well, the bolts seem solid. Interestingly, this might be the only route at Moores that you can easily top-rope without leading anything. Used to be my go-to TR solo for training. There is a bomber tree anchor you can access via the Hanging Garden gully. I think you need at least a 70m for TR, maybe 2 ropes.
|Comments on Midlife Crises
From: western NC
Sep 20, 2010
I believe the "FA" was a group effort including mike turner and tom callicut. It was reportedly top-roped a good bit beforehand... Actually the true FA was probably done by tim fisher as a wandering line before the bolts and pin were added. The second bolt is located in a bizzarre spot to clip.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Really like this route. Hope I have a change to do it clean before it gets too cold.