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Midlife Cracksis 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Phil Baldwin, Mark Sargent June 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,116
Submitted By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009

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Description 

There are several starts to this particular climb all about the same grade. 1) Either start up the short crack at the small pine tree to the first tan bolt or 2) 10 feet upslope from the crack traverse over left to the same first tan bolt. Regardless of the start you now climb up, possibly placing a small/medium C4 before reaching a second tan bolt, traverse right then up the face close the right edge clipping 6 bolts along the way. At the last bolt go straight up for the spice or escape out right to the casualness. Clamber up a vegetated shelve to the anchor. 8 bolts total. 20 meters


Protection 

Draws and maybe a small/medium C4.



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By mikewhite
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a PG13

Good route.
All you need is a standard rack up to #2 camalot. Small cams and nuts most of the way. Micro nuts are handy on this one.
The bolts are still missing but the crack is easily protected.

Decent- down climb from top of first pitch or leave a sling behind.

By STH
Oct 16, 2009

Climbed this the other day too to see what all the hub-bub was about. Sorry to say, but I now understand why the bolts were removed and I completely agree with their removal. I'm surprised two climbers who are relatively well respected around here would bolt a completely protectable crack, even naming it "Midlife Cracksis" and then hide behind the excuse that "we did it for the beginners!"

Too bad this thing is becoming more common around here, oh and shame on people who place 8 bolts in barely 60 feet of completely protectable crack, in a wilderness area, with a powerdrill, and then openly complain about it to the Forest Service. (I was there and was actually a bit embarrassed by you)

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wonderful if short. Can't imagine why any bolts would be needed - tons of great gear. Easier than it looks.