Start up "New Ethics", but then lead out right. Scramble to a ledge on the right side of a mini-pinnacle (a long ways off the ground), and reach out right to clip a bolt (just) above? a 1 1/2" wide ledge. Mantle up on this ledge with the very gently bulging wall pushing you backwards and move up slightly left using a 1/2 mono pocket for balance. A couple more insecure moves will gain you a good left-facing, right-trending, crack-dihedral system that leads to a corner-chimney. A few more clips up a great black headwall to the left leads you to the anchors. This is a really good route.
For further clarification, Turkeys Bleak (10a) can be found about 25 feet right of Midget Toss (fifteen feet right of Child's Play) and identified as a line of eight clips that starts up a short slab-ish face and leads to a blunt prow split by a crack. Enjoy, it's good for the grade.
After recently doing this route and talking with others who have as well, it appears the consensus grade for the "Toss" is settling in at 11b. Everyone seems to enjoy the fine rock and moves, so get on it next time you're at Cactus! While the first bolt looks awfully high, the scramble to it is on solid rock. Still use caution!
The starting runout is a lot easier than Spiny Dan's, but I will have to get on this again to verify the 11b claim. I thought it was a lot harder (as in 11d/12a), but then I was expecting a 10a, so an awful lot of my perception was based on my getting on an "Easy" warm-up route. In any case, it really is an excellent route no matter what the grade!
By Monty From: Golden, CO Apr 25, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
This thing is SOOOO fun. One of my more favorite non-greasy routes at Shelf. Stay outa the corner at the top and stay on the Face for the full 4 stars!
A bolt has been added (when, I don't know) to ease that runout - although the runout is not spicy at all. Great route, not slimy, eases up in the middle, stay left of the bolt line at the top to keep the difficulty.