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Midget Porn 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 947
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 2, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Midget Porn

Description 

Three quick moves and it's over. Yeah, so it's a bit short, but it's actually worth the time. Start sitting to the right of the tree with a right hand sidepull and a strange left hand crimp with large feet. Pull up with difficulty and snag a crimp before matching. Toss straight up to a good jug and topout.

Location 

From Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete), head towards the large boulder visible behind it. To the left of the large boulder is a shorter block. This problem climbs the shorter boulder just right of the tree.

Protection 

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Photos of Midget Porn Slideshow Add Photo
The broken crimp. And the new hold!
BETA PHOTO: The broken crimp. And the new hold!
The crimp that formerly was...
The crimp that formerly was...

Comments on Midget Porn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 27, 2013
rating: V5+ 6C+

Well, I've got some bad news and some good news.

The bad news is that the crimp that you match on is no longer there. I ripped it off the wall on my first attempt yesterday.

The good news is that it left a small sloping crimp in its place. This hold is actually less sharp and nicer to grab than the previous crimp. It is too small to match on so the problem climbs a bit different now. I went up right hand to this new sloping crimp and pressed it out with this hold and the starting left hand hold to reach the jug.

I would say this problem is actually better now. The movement is better and the hold is friendlier.

It's difficult to say if the breakage makes the problem any harder. I was able to do it with the new hold in a couple of tries. I feel like the crux is still the pull off the ground. Might be more like hard v5 now. Or easy v6. Who knows. Get out and try it! It's not bad for a seven foot tall boulder. :)
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 18, 2013
rating: V5+ 6C+

Here's a short video I made to show off the new beta for this climb. Enjoy!

By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2013

Makes me want to go to the Double Down in Vegas !