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The Middle Wall is a popular area at Avalon. The classic Strange Science (11c) is a big attraction. Free Fall (12a) is another great route just right of Strange Science. Around the corner to the right lies a big slab which has several popular moderate routes, including Incline Club (8), Tomb of Sorrows (9), and Disinclination (7).
Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt path starts at the top of the talus. Follow the path uphill a bit until the trail splits. Continue up the hill on the right trail branch. You'll eventually reach a steep wall with a scooped-out face; this is the route Strange Science. Free Fall is the arete to the right. The slab routes Disinclination and Incline Club start just up the hill to the right, at a right-facing corner. Tomb of Sorrows starts at the top of the slab in a chimney on the left.
10 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Wall:
Supernatural 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Ripcord 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Free Fall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Middle Wall
Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle Wall
I'll stick my neck out and give Strange Science three stars (at least by Boulder Canyon standards). The climb is pretty obvious as you hike up the faint trail to Avalon. The route follows a line of small flakes up the center of a beautiful forty-foot high scooped face, a pleasingly natural and independent line. The right arete, Free Fall, is bolted and (5.12a?) has a steep bouldery look, with a seam and closely-spaced bolts. Right again is a steep, short face then a short, scruffy,...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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