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 ADVANCED
West Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptogamic T 
Knobelty S 
Left Cheek, The S 
Long Toe S 
Middle Toe S,TR 
Pickin' It S,TR 
Sacroiliac Joint T 
Scratchin' It S 

Middle Toe 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jerry Klatt and Ron Brown
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on May 9, 2010

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Description 

The middle of three routes on the clean face on the far left side of the West Buttress. These routes are packed tightly together so you have to follow the bolt lines fairly precisely if you want the listed ratings.

For the "Middle Toe", make a tricky mantle start and then cruise slabby terrain until you reach a slight bulge. The crux is getting your feet over this bulge, and is very well protected by bolt three. From here, easier but still occassionally thought-provoking smearing leads to the anchor.

A good route to work on your friction technique.


Location 

Far left side, of the West Buttress, about 50 feet left (around the corner) from "Knobelty"

"Middle Toe" is, you guessed it, the middle of the three face climbs in this on this side of the crag. "Long Toe", 5.8, is just to its right, and "Short Toe", 5.10b (requires some gear), is just to its left.


Protection 

4 or 5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor shared with the three "Toe" routes



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