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 ADVANCED
Middle Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beach Crack T,TR 
In the Buckets TR 
Jungle Book T,TR 
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 
Two In One S 

In the Buckets 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Katie Purtill on Jun 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the route less the first five feet. Climb...

Description 

Argh!!! Fun but frustrating and slopeeeeey... Just right of "Jungle Book," up the obvious line of pockets. Very tricky, body-position-dependent moves on unnervingly sandy rock. When all else fails, jump.

Protection 

Three bolts on top; long slings for toproping. Uses the same anchor as "Jungle Book." Watch for rope drag.


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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 25, 2002

Looks like this climb used to be a lot easier due to the foot holds sloping out over years of use. Still a fun route, it's easier than you think.
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 25, 2002

This route is about the most beta-intensive climb i've ever seen. I've watched a lot of people go up this, and once someone figures out what to do, the climb quickly becomes quite do-able.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 24, 2005

This and Jungle Book (5.10D) make the mid-tier well worth while, especially when everybody is waiting for the lower tier climbs. As mentioned, the moves are definitely beta intensive, but they also require some grip. The fun part my friend and I noticed is that it tends to make the climber do the oddest moves attempting to reach the next hold before realizing there's an easier, more conventional way to do it. That said, we both ended up dynoing to pass two different cruxes. Fun route!
By scalparm
From: Vienna, Austria
Apr 29, 2008

I don't agree that it's beta intensive at all. Just powerful, balanced movement. There are no bolts, so just TR. Definitely worth it after Jungle Book! One crucial hold is gonna break pretty soon. Rating is solid at 11c/d.
By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fantastic route - flashed it with good beta on the lower section, cool body position and some desperate/unlikely moves. Felt solid 5.11d/.12a for me, but I'm short.