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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buckingham (SE) Ridge 
Dike Pinnacle North Face 
Dike route 
North Ridge 
Northwest Ice Couloir 
Southwest Couloir 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Teton 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,804'
Page Views: 24,213. Good page?   
Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007

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Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon

Description 

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.


Getting There 

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Teton:
Southwest Couloir   3rd     Trad, Alpine, 4000 feet, Grade II   
North Ridge   5.5     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
Dike route   5.6 Steep Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade IV   
Northwest Ice Couloir   5.6 AI2-3     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II   
Buckingham (SE) Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Middle Teton

Featured Route For Middle Teton
Looking off the top of the Buckingham Ridge at the Grand Teton.  The climber is on the upper part of the Ellingwood Couloir Route.

Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton
From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of Middle Teton Slideshow Add Photo
Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail <br />photo: Christian Baird. <br />

BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail
photo: Chris...


Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyone knows where on the MT I am, as in route or area, please let me know...thanks!)

Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyon...

Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which looks over to Disappointment Peak

BETA PHOTO: Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which l...

The Meadows in Winter

The Meadows in Winter

Middle Teton from the meadows

Middle Teton from the meadows

Middle Teton, north side

Middle Teton, north side

Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle

Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle

A winter trip up the Middle.

A winter trip up the Middle.