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The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.
The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Teton
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Teton:
Southwest Couloir 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine, 4000'
North Ridge 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Middle Teton Glacier Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'
Northwest Ice Couloir 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000'
Dike route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches
Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'
Dike Pinnacle North Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'
Featured Route For Middle Teton
Middle Teton Glacier Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton
The obvious route while approaching the Lower Saddle. Climb the left side of the upper tongue, avoiding the huge crevasse that opens up mid to late season. At the col between Dike Pinnacle and the main summit, the snow/ice usually ends, turn right and rock climb to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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