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Middle Teton

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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 
Dike route T 
Ellingwood Couloir T 
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 
North Ridge T 
Northwest Ice Couloir T 
Southwest Couloir T 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Teton 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,804'
Page Views: 35,513
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
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Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon

Description 

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.


Getting There 

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Teton:
Southwest Couloir   3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a     Trad, Alpine, 4000'   
North Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
Middle Teton Glacier Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow     Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   
Northwest Ice Couloir   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000'   
Dike route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches   
Buckingham (SE) Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'   
Dike Pinnacle North Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Teton

Featured Route For Middle Teton
The Middle Teton Glacier route follows directly up to the crevasses, left of them and up the narrow, steeper tongue to the col.  Typically rock climbing up the skyline to the summit. <br /> <br />Picture borrowed from John Hegyes from the main Middle Teton page.

Middle Teton Glacier Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton
The obvious route while approaching the Lower Saddle. Climb the left side of the upper tongue, avoiding the huge crevasse that opens up mid to late season. At the col between Dike Pinnacle and the main summit, the snow/ice usually ends, turn right and rock climb to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for Middle Teton
Photos of Middle Teton Slideshow Add Photo
The Meadows in Winter
The Meadows in Winter
Middle Teton, north side
Middle Teton, north side
A winter trip up the Middle.
A winter trip up the Middle.
Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which looks over to Disappointment Peak
BETA PHOTO: Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which l...
Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyone knows where on the MT I am, as in route or area, please let me know...thanks!)
Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyon...
Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail <br />photo: Christian Baird. <br />
BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail
photo: Chris...
Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle
Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle
Middle Teton from the meadows
Middle Teton from the meadows
The Middle from Garnet Canyon Trail
The Middle from Garnet Canyon Trail
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