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Elevation: 12,804 ft
GPS: 43.72992, -110.81132
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 88,681 total · 428/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description Suggest change

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There Suggest change

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Teton Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Teton

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
 137
Southwest Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
 6
Chouinard Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 56
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
 27
Middle Teton Glacier Route
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
 4
Ellingwood Couloir
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2
 33
Northwest Ice Couloir
Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
 15
Dike Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Buckingham (SE) Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Couloir
 137
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Chouinard Ridge
 6
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
North Ridge
 56
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
Middle Teton Glacier Route
 27
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
Ellingwood Couloir
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Northwest Ice Couloir
 33
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Dike Route
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Buckingham (SE) Ridge
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Middle Teton »

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