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The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.
The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Teton:
Southwest Couloir 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine, 4000'
North Ridge 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Middle Teton Glacier Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'
Northwest Ice Couloir 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000'
Dike route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches
Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'
Dike Pinnacle North Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'
Featured Route For Middle Teton
Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton
From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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