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Middle Spire Rock Climbing
Routes in Middle Spire
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Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slowdancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Elevation: | 6,028 ft | 1,837 m |
| GPS: |
38.7875, -120.2441 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 62,054 total · 262/month | |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005 | |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.
All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.
As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.
Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.
All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.
All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.
As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.
Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.
All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.
Getting There
Approach time: 10 minutes.
From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.
From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.
Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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Guidebooks (11)
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