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Middle Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex 
Candyass 
Candyland 
Chainsaw Willie 
Clam, The 
Cockabooty 
Corn Flakes 
Fancy Dancin' 
Hard Up 
Harding's Other Chimney 
Hooray Hooray! 
Lean And Mean 
Leaner and Meaner 
Over Easy 
Penny Candy 
Prow, The 
Rain Song 
Regular Route 
Slowdancer 
Tyro's Test Piece 
Unknown 
Unnamed 

Middle Spire 


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Lat, Long: 38.7875, -120.2441 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,627
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
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Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...

Description 

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.


Getting There 

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Spire:
Over Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad   
Anal Sex   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X     Trad, 1 pitch   
Regular Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Hooray Hooray!   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Slowdancer   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   
Hard Up   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   
Lean And Mean   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Corn Flakes   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   
Penny Candy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fancy Dancin'   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   
The Prow   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Candyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad   
Candyass   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Trad   
Leaner and Meaner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Spire

Featured Route For Middle Spire
Candyland heads straight up the face. The rope seen in the picture is actually going up Candy Ass (5.10d), which is the sport route immediately left of the route.  Look for the imposing, yet simple slab leading up to the 12"+ knobs.

Candyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire
This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.This climb faces west....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Middle Spire
Photos of Middle Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Middle Spire, north side routes.
BETA PHOTO: Middle Spire, north side routes.
As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5 minutes in.
BETA PHOTO: As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5...
A wet Middle Spire.
A wet Middle Spire.
Top of the east face: beautiful views and good pards make for awesome days out! <br /> <br />September 2009
Top of the east face: beautiful views and good par...
As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbread Man.  Climber on Corn Flakes.
BETA PHOTO: As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbrea...
Middle Spire in the late November evening light.
Middle Spire in the late November evening light.
Middle Spire
Middle Spire
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