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Middle Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Middle Spire  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7875, -120.2441 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,766
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
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Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...

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The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.

Getting There 

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.2 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Spire:
Over Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   
Anal Sex   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     Trad, 1 pitch   
Regular Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Hooray Hooray!   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Slowdancer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Hard Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Lean And Mean   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Corn Flakes   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Penny Candy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fancy Dancin'   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   
The Prow   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Candyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
Candyass   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad   
Leaner and Meaner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Spire

Featured Route For Middle Spire
Paul on the exposed face of the Prow (take from the belay station).

The Prow 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire
The Prow is a great route with plenty of exposure. The route climbs the left side of the large rectangular block on the upper North Side of Middle Spire. This is a wonderful second pitch to Over Easy (5.7) or any of the routes in this area. From the two anchors (at the bottom left side of the rectangular block) climb up a few feet and step out to the arete. The first bolt is hidden just around the corner. You definitely want to find this and clip it prior to committing yourself out on the a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Middle Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Middle Spire, north side routes.
BETA PHOTO: Middle Spire, north side routes.
As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5 minutes in.
BETA PHOTO: As seen from approach trail from parking lot ~ 3-5...
A wet Middle Spire.
A wet Middle Spire.
Top of the east face: beautiful views and good pards make for awesome days out! <br /> <br />September 2009
Top of the east face: beautiful views and good par...
As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbread Man.  Climber on Corn Flakes.
BETA PHOTO: As seen from base of Fear of Flying and Gingerbrea...
Middle Spire in the late November evening light.
Middle Spire in the late November evening light.
Middle Spire
Middle Spire

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