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The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.
Approach time: 10 minutes.
22 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Spire:
Over Easy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Anal Sex 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad, 1 pitch
Regular Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Hooray Hooray! 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Slowdancer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hard Up 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lean And Mean 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Corn Flakes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Penny Candy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Fancy Dancin' 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
The Prow 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Candyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Candyass 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Leaner and Meaner 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Middle Spire
The Prow 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Middle Spire
The Prow is a great route with plenty of exposure. The route climbs the left side of the large rectangular block on the upper North Side of Middle Spire. This is a wonderful second pitch to Over Easy (5.7) or any of the routes in this area. From the two anchors (at the bottom left side of the rectangular block) climb up a few feet and step out to the arete. The first bolt is hidden just around the corner. You definitely want to find this and clip it prior to committing yourself out on the a...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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