Middle Rock is the long, east-to-west oriented dome that lies just to the north of the Mosaic Rock. Most, or maybe all, of the established routes ascend the southern face of the dome, which Jackson describes as being "characterized by sweeping slabs capped by diagonaling crack systems and steeper headwalls and overhangs."
Most commonly approached by circling around the western end of the Mosaic Rock and passing through the gap between Mosaic and West Rock #1 to reach the left end of the south face of Middle Rock. An easy walk on well-defined user trails.
Browse More Classics in Middle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Rock:
Bats in the Belfry 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight 5.10 Trad, 160 feet
Featured Route For Middle Rock
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight 5.10 NM : Taos Area : ... : Middle Rock
When looking up at the top of Middle Rock from the base of the south face one can't help but notice this steep, short face of awesome chicken heads. Cowboy Bob's Chicken Head Delight ascends straight up the face through some of the coolest chicken heads I've ever pulled down on. Unfortunately, the first half of the route is easy climbing before switching to the steep, featured climbing--you'll be wishing it was longer.Start at the base of the south face on the far left side below the lon...[more] Browse More Classics in NM