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 ADVANCED
North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Argonaut , The TR 
Awakening Spirits T 
Bat Attack T,S 
Boogie Till ya Puke T 
ByPass T 
Death Wish T 
Enduro Man Rides Again T 
Filet-O-Fish T 
Indian Head Direct T 
indian toe T 
Joy Loader T 
Juggerhead T 
Juggernaut T 
Lark's Tongue T 
Middle Road S 
Mighty Mouse T 
Nevermore T 
Nevermore (The other one) T 
Nicotine T,S 
Nutsweat T 
Rastafari T 
Reckless Abandon T 
Recommendation, The S 
Shadowdance T 
Spice T 
Superman's Dead T 
Unknown T 
Vascular Disaster T 
Visual Splendor T 
War Games T,S 
Windigo T 

Middle Road 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard and Eric Zschiesche
Page Views: 2,552
Submitted By: sean barb on Feb 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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PJ on early ascent...note grimace and heinous clip...

Description 

A very sustained line up the center of the wall. Hard clips and a sandbagged grade contribute to make this one a very proud send. A psyche/head testpiece.

Location 

Middle of the wall, sandwiched in between Nicotine and Boogie Til Ya Puke.

Protection 

Small cams and one large piece for the finishing flare. 2 bolts, a pin, and a small steel nut are the in-situ gear. An anchor of slung nuts will put you back on the ground after you get through the difficult climbing.


Photos of Middle Road Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Loomis on the first crux of Middle Road
Greg Loomis on the first crux of Middle Road
  Eric Zschiesche posing for a photo,.. after an ascent of a Nside classic in 1987. As I recall, Porter J. tethered the rope to a rock, and wandered off and up to snap a few pics. <br />   The rock is as it is,... in spite of our scrawling.
Eric Zschiesche posing for a photo,.. after an a...
Greg Loomis sticking the crux move on Middle Road
Greg Loomis sticking the crux move on Middle Road

Comments on Middle Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By erik danielson
Apr 29, 2009

this route is 12d
By gloomis
Oct 7, 2013

I'll give a nod for 12d. My favorite on the wall so far
By gloomis
Oct 17, 2013

Anchor revamped October 2013