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The middle peak of the Rabbit Ears group. The west face has some beautiful lines, and there is hard-route potential on the north side where a steep series of roofs dubbed the ChurchKey is found. You're not likely to run into other climbers up here, but you will find great 3-4 pitch routes. If you time your ascent right, you can climb in either the sun or shade. Even in July, you can comfortably climb here, although the approach/descent begin to get stifling.
Approach can be made from either side of the range (Starting from the Aguirre Springs parking or from the Topp Hut). The typical approach is to come from the Topp Hut. Hike into Rabbit Ears Canyon, past The Citadel. Continue up the canyon, staying in or near the stream bed which is usually dry. Eventually, there will be a lesser-gully that branches off to the left directly up towards the North and Middle Rabbit ears. Follow an indistinct trail in this gully and next to it on its south side. It leads roughly to the base of the West Face of the Middle Rabbit Ear.
The descent route is off the south side. Scramble down to a large tree, with several old slings and a wire-cable around it. A two-rope rappel gains a large tree-filled ledge. There is also an old belay station consisting of two old 1/4" bolts which allows you to gain the ledge with two single-rope rappels. Walk to the far west side of the ledge where a chain anchor is found. A single-rope rappel reaches the ground.
10 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Rabbit Ear:
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 750'
Featured Route For Middle Rabbit Ear
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b NM : Organ Mountains : ... : Middle Rabbit Ear
You can't help but stare at this route as you approach the Middle Rabbit Ear from Rabbit Ears Canyon. The route follows a nearly direct ascent of the North Side of the West face, folloiwng a path of least resistance up corners, face climbing and slab.Scramble up to a nice belay ledge about 50 ft above the canyon floor. This is 4th class, and there are multiple good places to belay from. The first pitch aims for a large left facing corner system. A few harder variations can be found getting into ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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