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Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Button Soup T 
Face It T 
Left Peyote Crack T 
Middle Peyote Crack T 
Right Peyote Crack T 
Zygote T 

Middle Peyote Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,048
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 23, 2003

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Middle Peyote - a great name, a calm spot, and a c...

Description 

The crux of this crack is low to the ground and is passed quickly- if you can protect overhead, this makes it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, The center of these starts with a slightly overhanging odd jam and proceeds upwards to easier territory. The climb protects from the ground and then again at the crux to make the leader pretty safe. Climb up on awkward moves (5.9 crux) to reach a lower angle jam crack above (5.6?) and proceed to the top.

The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.

Protection 

Standard J-tree rack- a few stoppers, a few cams to hand/fist sized.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.



Photos of Middle Peyote Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Night Solo, Middle Peyote Crack, Joshua Tree
Night Solo, Middle Peyote Crack, Joshua Tree
"Put me back on belay, eh?"
"Put me back on belay, eh?"
Bouldering.
Bouldering.
The Peyote Cracks in the late afternoon sun. A convenient Hidden Valley digestif.
The Peyote Cracks in the late afternoon sun. A con...

Comments on Middle Peyote Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Apr 6, 2004

Isn't this a boulder problem in Mari Gingery's guide? No worrries though. Plug away those cams mate!
By Ryan Avery
Mar 26, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This thing was not so hot in my book. I think it is awkward at best.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 27, 2005

I'd agree that this route is definitely NOT worth doing, but I can say that I have, sadly enough. It's one of those routes that needs a 1/2 star rating because calling it a bomb is just not nice. LOL
By Josh Beck
Mar 28, 2005

Maybe a boulder problem, maybe a short route, doesn't really matter but it doesn't completely suck, it's fun enough. Not a main attraction or anything however.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A very good climb for new climbers to learn some jamming technique.
By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I felt the peyote cracks were a waste of time. On the bright side, I didn't need to stand in line.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Jan 4, 2009

Definitely not as bad as made to seem. The crux beginning is fun to work for someone just breaking into the 9's at J tree.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
May 3, 2009

This was like a boulder problem followed by scrambling. Don't waste your time with a rope. A pad could be useful though.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Crux is first 15 feet and is harder than 5.9. Straight in .5/.75 jamming a bit insecure for the book's 5.9 grade.

The rest of the route is easy 5.7 with a harder move up higher.
By Richard Shore
Oct 26, 2010

too many haters! ^^^ They probably all got shut down by the cruxy off-fingers start. This thing was fun - awesome freesolo!