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Middle Parallel Space 
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Unsorted Routes:

Middle Parallel Space 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,770
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001
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Chimney climbing at its best.

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Description 

This line follows the wide crack (crux) up to a spacious ledge before chimneying behind the huge pillar.

P1. Chimney while jamming and protecting in the lovely handcrack. Surmise the difficulty of the line if the pillar were not present, then easily surmount the pillar for the first belay.

P2. For pitch two, step across the pillar back into the hand crack and ascend to a horizontal crack, pull the small roof via another crack to the right. Easier, unprotected slab climbing gains the rappel anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack up to 4 or 5 inches. Rappel anchor atop the 2nd pitch, as well as an anchor atop the huge flake.



Photos of Middle Parallel Space Slideshow Add Photo
Bottom part of climb.  Crack up to ledge, then go right into chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Bottom part of climb. Crack up to ledge, then go ...
Danny entering the crux on P1 of the mystical Middle Parallel Space.
Danny entering the crux on P1 of the mystical Midd...
Here is Brian's pic with a little contrast adjustment.
Here is Brian's pic with a little contrast adjustm...
Full shot of climb, top section goes inside chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Full shot of climb, top section goes inside chimne...
Apparently Matt's shadow was too excited to climb to wait for the rest of him!
Apparently Matt's shadow was too excited to climb ...
Tom wrestling an alligator at the start of Middle Parallel Space.
Tom wrestling an alligator at the start of Middle ...
Top of climb, crack inside of chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Top of climb, crack inside of chimney.
Beta of the bottom.
BETA PHOTO: Beta of the bottom.
Another shot of the first half of climb.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the first half of climb.
Matthew Wade following the fun, handcrack, chimney section.
Matthew Wade following the fun, handcrack, chimney...
Enjoying the chimney section.
Enjoying the chimney section.
Nearing the top of the first pitch.
Nearing the top of the first pitch.
Comments on Middle Parallel Space Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 3, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 4, 2002

Excellent climb. This is the wide crack to the right of Friday the 13th and then continues behind the pillar. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the crux off sized crack at the start of the climb. The moves up the chimney are really the gem of this climb and the entire chimney is easily protected using a few hand-sized cams. There are chain anchors on the top of the pillar that you can rappel from if you are not interested in climbing the second pitch. The rappel is airy and fun too.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Don't skip the second pitch! It is part of the fun!

You can rap from the top of P2, over the pillar and all of the way to the bottom with a 70M rope. A 60M would leave you in a world of pain if you tried to do this in one rap.

By Adam Holmes
Oct 24, 2003

A 60 meter rope got me to the ground in one rap from the top (but barely). You should be able to see your ends near the ground before you commit to this.

By Rob Dillon
Jul 26, 2004

I did this in one and found it to be really enjoyable. Don't miss the second pitch!

By nolteboy
Apr 18, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 2, 2005

Rock quality in the chimney is suspect although it is a chimney so it's not that easy to fall out of.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jun 22, 2006

I did it in one pitch with rope drag, I ran out of long runners at the traversing top. I don't remember any problems with rock quality in the chimney. Overall, an awesome climb.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Do it all as one pitch for a marvellous 3-part adventure. One of my favorite 5.9s anywhere.

By Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I linked both pitches for some fun climbing and killer rope drag. Bring some slings if you're planning on linking.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 22, 2011

DO THIS CLIMB! Both pitches.

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013

We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.

Not being ingratiated previously to The Voo ways, we came equipped with only doubles to #2 and a single #3, #4, #5, and #6 and had to leapfrog some pieces to stay safe. Those climbing at their limit here may want doubles in the #3-5 range to better button this up, as P1 is pretty sustained with P2 offering some groundfall potential early if not well protected. That said, with sufficient cams this thing eats gear just about all the way.

I climbed this in one total pitch with extra-long runners towards the end of P1 and the beginning of P2. There was still a bit of rope drag at the summit, but I would say the linking was worth it for a stellar one-push outing. The P1 steep closed-right-face jams and stems are thin but all there. The real money pitch, though, is P2 with a unique combination of jams on the main face and butt-scootches on the opposing pillar, followed by a committing step over into the main face crack once the opposing pillar gets too far away. Not to mention the fun right-leading traverse at the finish (stepping a bit down for good feet works well here before proceeding up to the top).

I was hooting and hollering the whole way! Mega-classic and in the top 2-3 climbs I did in 5 days at The Voo.

By Deke Doty
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 3, 2013

Classic first pitch! Second pitch, hand traverse and classic Voo, crunchy slab finish!