This line follows the wide crack (crux) up to a spacious ledge before chimneying behind the huge pillar.
P1. Chimney while jamming and protecting in the lovely handcrack. Surmise the difficulty of the line if the pillar were not present, then easily surmount the pillar for the first belay.
P2. For pitch two, step across the pillar back into the hand crack and ascend to a horizontal crack, pull the small roof via another crack to the right. Easier, unprotected slab climbing gains the rappel anchor.
Standard rack up to 4 or 5 inches. Rappel anchor atop the 2nd pitch, as well as an anchor atop the huge flake.
Excellent climb. This is the wide crack to the right of Friday the 13th and then continues behind the pillar. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the crux off sized crack at the start of the climb. The moves up the chimney are really the gem of this climb and the entire chimney is easily protected using a few hand-sized cams. There are chain anchors on the top of the pillar that you can rappel from if you are not interested in climbing the second pitch. The rappel is airy and fun too.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 7, 2002 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Don't skip the second pitch! It is part of the fun!
You can rap from the top of P2, over the pillar and all of the way to the bottom with a 70M rope. A 60M would leave you in a world of pain if you tried to do this in one rap.
We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.
Not being ingratiated previously to The Voo ways, we came equipped with only doubles to #2 and a single #3, #4, #5, and #6 and had to leapfrog some pieces to stay safe. Those climbing at their limit here may want doubles in the #3-5 range to better button this up, as P1 is pretty sustained with P2 offering some groundfall potential early if not well protected. That said, with sufficient cams this thing eats gear just about all the way.
I climbed this in one total pitch with extra-long runners towards the end of P1 and the beginning of P2. There was still a bit of rope drag at the summit, but I would say the linking was worth it for a stellar one-push outing. The P1 steep closed-right-face jams and stems are thin but all there. The real money pitch, though, is P2 with a unique combination of jams on the main face and butt-scootches on the opposing pillar, followed by a committing step over into the main face crack once the opposing pillar gets too far away. Not to mention the fun right-leading traverse at the finish (stepping a bit down for good feet works well here before proceeding up to the top).
I was hooting and hollering the whole way! Mega-classic and in the top 2-3 climbs I did in 5 days at The Voo.
By Deke Doty From: Fort Collins, Colorado Nov 3, 2013
Classic first pitch! Second pitch, hand traverse and classic Voo, crunchy slab finish!