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L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side 
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B-G Crack 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
Crankenstein 
Cupcake 
Deception 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Dual 
Easy Jam 
Ejector-Rejector 
Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hemoglobin 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
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In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Knee Grinder 
Knothole 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lucky You 
Max Factor 
MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nemo's Nemesis 
Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
Octagon 
October Light 
Old Eyeful 
Outrider 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Pretty 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
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Right Winger 
Slab Stealer 
Slat 
Slick and Superficial 
Slit 
Slut 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Stinkzig 
Straight 4 Ward 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation 
Ted's Trot 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy 
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TTR 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
Wall-To-Wall 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Parallel Space 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Tom wrestling an alligator at the start of Middle ...

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Description 

This line follows the wide crack (crux) up to a spacious ledge before chimneying behind the huge pillar.

P1. Chimney while jamming and protecting in the lovely handcrack. Surmise the difficulty of the line if the pillar were not present, then easily surmount the pillar for the first belay.

P2. For pitch two, step across the pillar back into the hand crack and ascend to a horizontal crack, pull the small roof via another crack to the right. Easier, unprotected slab climbing gains the rappel anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack up to 4 or 5 inches. Rappel anchor atop the 2nd pitch, as well as an anchor atop the huge flake.



Photos of Middle Parallel Space Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the chimney section.

Enjoying the chimney section.

Danny entering the crux on P1 of the mystical Middle Parallel Space.

Danny entering the crux on P1 of the mystical Midd...

Here is Brian's pic with a little contrast adjustment.

Here is Brian's pic with a little contrast adjustm...

Bottom part of climb.  Crack up to ledge, then go right into chimney.

BETA PHOTO: Bottom part of climb. Crack up to ledge, then go ...

Another shot of the first half of climb.

BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the first half of climb.

Full shot of climb, top section goes inside chimney.

BETA PHOTO: Full shot of climb, top section goes inside chimne...

Top of climb, crack inside of chimney.

BETA PHOTO: Top of climb, crack inside of chimney.

Apparently Matt's shadow was too excited to climb to wait for the rest of him!

Apparently Matt's shadow was too excited to climb ...

Chimney climbing at its best.

Chimney climbing at its best.

Matthew Wade following the fun, handcrack, chimney section.

Matthew Wade following the fun, handcrack, chimney...


Comments on Middle Parallel Space Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 4, 2002

Excellent climb. This is the wide crack to the right of Friday the 13th and then continues behind the pillar. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the crux off sized crack at the start of the climb. The moves up the chimney are really the gem of this climb and the entire chimney is easily protected using a few hand-sized cams. There are chain anchors on the top of the pillar that you can rappel from if you are not interested in climbing the second pitch. The rappel is airy and fun too.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.9+

Don't skip the second pitch! It is part of the fun!

You can rap from the top of P2, over the pillar and all of the way to the bottom with a 70M rope. A 60M would leave you in a world of pain if you tried to do this in one rap.

By Adam Holmes
Oct 24, 2003

A 60 meter rope got me to the ground in one rap from the top (but barely). You should be able to see your ends near the ground before you commit to this.

By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Jul 26, 2004

I did this in one and found it to be really enjoyable. Don't miss the second pitch!

By nolteboy
Apr 18, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 2, 2005

Rock quality in the chimney is suspect although it is a chimney so it's not that easy to fall out of.

By manuel rangel
Jun 22, 2006

I did it in one pitch with rope drag, I ran out of long runners at the traversing top. I don't remember any problems with rock quality in the chimney. Overall, an awesome climb.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.9

Do it all as one pitch for a marvellous 3-part adventure. One of my favorite 5.9s anywhere.

By Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+

I linked both pitches for some fun climbing and killer rope drag. Bring some slings if you're planning on linking.

By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Aug 22, 2011

DO THIS CLIMB! Both pitches.