Middle Parallel Space
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Tom wrestling an alligator at the start of Middle ...
This line follows the wide crack (crux) up to a spacious ledge before chimneying behind the huge pillar.
P1. Chimney while jamming and protecting in the lovely handcrack. Surmise the difficulty of the line if the pillar were not present, then easily surmount the pillar for the first belay.
P2. For pitch two, step across the pillar back into the hand crack and ascend to a horizontal crack, pull the small roof via another crack to the right. Easier, unprotected slab climbing gains the rappel anchor.
Standard rack up to 4 or 5 inches. Rappel anchor atop the 2nd pitch, as well as an anchor atop the huge flake.
Enjoying the chimney section.
Danny entering the crux on P1 of the mystical Midd...
Here is Brian's pic with a little contrast adjustm...
BETA PHOTO: Bottom part of climb. Crack up to ledge, then go ...
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the first half of climb.
BETA PHOTO: Full shot of climb, top section goes inside chimne...
BETA PHOTO: Top of climb, crack inside of chimney.
Apparently Matt's shadow was too excited to climb ...
Chimney climbing at its best.
Matthew Wade following the fun, handcrack, chimney...
|Comments on Middle Parallel Space
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 4, 2002
Excellent climb. This is the wide crack to the right of Friday the 13th and then continues behind the pillar. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the crux off sized crack at the start of the climb. The moves up the chimney are really the gem of this climb and the entire chimney is easily protected using a few hand-sized cams. There are chain anchors on the top of the pillar that you can rappel from if you are not interested in climbing the second pitch. The rappel is airy and fun too.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
Don't skip the second pitch! It is part of the fun!
You can rap from the top of P2, over the pillar and all of the way to the bottom with a 70M rope. A 60M would leave you in a world of pain if you tried to do this in one rap.
|By Adam Holmes|
Oct 24, 2003
A 60 meter rope got me to the ground in one rap from the top (but barely). You should be able to see your ends near the ground before you commit to this.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Jul 26, 2004
I did this in one and found it to be really enjoyable. Don't miss the second pitch!
Apr 18, 2005
Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time.
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 2, 2005
Rock quality in the chimney is suspect although it is a chimney so it's not that easy to fall out of.
|By manuel rangel|
Jun 22, 2006
I did it in one pitch with rope drag, I ran out of long runners at the traversing top. I don't remember any problems with rock quality in the chimney. Overall, an awesome climb.
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jun 7, 2009
Do it all as one pitch for a marvellous 3-part adventure. One of my favorite 5.9s anywhere.
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 2, 2011
I linked both pitches for some fun climbing and killer rope drag. Bring some slings if you're planning on linking.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Aug 22, 2011
DO THIS CLIMB! Both pitches.