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Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) 
Hard Start 
Herb's Roof 
Hessing Route 
Inside Dihedral 
Left Mother 
Less-Hard Start 
Lizard Man 
Middle Mother 
Nose, The 
Notch, The 
Open Book 
Original Open Book 
Porter Route 
Ramp, The 
Rigid Deffacator 
Triple Overhang 

Middle Mother 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 11, 2008
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Middle Mother is the middle of the 3 steep cracks toward the right section of the cliff. A good 5.10 for this area.

Climb up to a horn/flake. The tricky finger crack section above is the crux, and is well protected with cams. The wall steepens even more, but the crack widens in places so you can get a few hand jam rests, and the options for footholds improve. Stay strong for the last pumpy finish on big holds.


The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. This is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.


1 set cams from fingers to 3"; nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor at the top, or sling blocks with long runners/cordelette, or tie off dying trees.

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