Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 1,099 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Middle Mother is the middle of the 3 steep cracks toward the right section of the cliff. A good 5.10 for this area.

Climb up to a horn/flake. The tricky finger crack section above is the crux, and is well protected with cams. The wall steepens even more, but the crack widens in places so you can get a few hand jam rests, and the options for footholds improve. Stay strong for the last pumpy finish on big holds.

Location Suggest change

The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. This is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.

Protection Suggest change

1 set cams from fingers to 3"; nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor at the top, or sling blocks with long runners/cordelette, or tie off dying trees.

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