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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

Middle Mother 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 11, 2008

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Description 

Middle Mother is the middle of the 3 steep cracks toward the right section of the cliff. A good 5.10 for this area.

Climb up to a horn/flake. The tricky finger crack section above is the crux, and is well protected with cams. The wall steepens even more, but the crack widens in places so you can get a few hand jam rests, and the options for footholds improve. Stay strong for the last pumpy finish on big holds.


Location 

The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. This is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.


Protection 

1 set cams from fingers to 3"; nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor at the top, or sling blocks with long runners/cordelette, or tie off dying trees.



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