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Shadow Rock
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1st Offense 
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I Love a Mystery 
Middle Man 
Shadow Traverse 
Thin Man 
Three To Get Ready 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kelly Farris & John Knight
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: John Knight on Jun 3, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Man is on the far right side of the topo (l...


This is not a separate route but a new start variation to Fat Man. I believe it has enough and different climbing to warrant a separate listing. You'll clip 3 bolts on the right side of the gully then you'll join Fat Man at bolt #2 (8 bolts total).

The crux for me was dealing with the lichen after clipping bolt #3. I'm sure it will clean up over time and may settle in at 5.9 instead of 5.10a.


Start at the base of the gully, just left of the Thin Man start. Scramble up the gully about half way then move right and up to clip the first Middle Man bolt. You'll get 2 more "new bolts" then you'll join Fat Man (at Fat Man bolt #2).

The climb is a full 180' so be sure your belayer ties in to the rope or you will get lowered off into the ether. You can rap down to the base of Fat Man with a single rope rap.


You'll need 8 draws for the route but bring a 9th so you can clip the first bolt on Thin Man. This will keep your rope out of the gully and running clean.

Photos of Middle Man Slideshow Add Photo
Raleigh giving it a go during the initial establishment of Middle Man.
Raleigh giving it a go during the initial establis...
Raleigh helping work out the future bolt locations for Middle Man.
Raleigh helping work out the future bolt locations...
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By Ken Klis
Jun 4, 2011

I climbed MAN IN THE MIDDLE yesterday and expected it to be much more refined.