You won't find many people climbing in this part of the Canyon. If you do they are probably bouldering since there are only about 4 roped routes here. Tool Buttress offers 3 climbs starting around .11b. Lots of boulders some are very difficult or still projects.
There are numerous ways of getting here. The best way would be taking the trail that leads to the Roman Wall/Magoo Rock. From the East Campground take the logging road north to the top. The boulders and Tool Buttress will be on your right. There are lots of boulders and lots of underbrush so it may be best to ask the guys at the Trading Post
12 Total Routes
Featured Route For Middle East
The Poo-Choo Train 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : ... : The Tool Buttress
From the Fixed Pin guide book:A brilliant pitch that's just slightly easier than "Don't be a Tool". Climb through a series of big holds and small ledges to the bulging crux. Engineer a successful sequence and ride over sustained ground to the ledge. Take a much need break and then hop back on board for one more challenging move at the roof....[more] Browse More Classics in AR
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